Saturday, August 20 We left Loctudy early and had a good wind to start. It soon died and we were once again motoring. We anchored for the night off Belle Isle. What more can I say, the no wind is old.
Sunday, August 21 We left Belle Isle with a good wind to start. It soon died and we motored to Ile D'Yeu where we anchored for the night. I guess this no wind is what sailing in August is like, a bit like the Bay.
Monday, August 22 We left Ile d'Yeu early to a glorious wind and headed for Ile de Re. This time the wind did not die and we were soon thinking we should take advantage of it and head for Port Medoc. We dithered and changed course a couple of times but by noon this wind was still perfect and we finally decided to go home. We got safely back into our slip at 11 PM.
Tuesday & Wednesday August 23 & 24 We have spent 2 days cleaning up the boat, packing the car, enjoying chausson aux pommes and grand creme, and are ready to head back to the house today, Thursday, August 25.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Friday, August 19, 2011
Back to France
Tuesday, August 16. Kinsale to The Isles of Scilly. We woke up in Kinsale on Tuesday morning to the news that a Fastnet boat (100 foot)had overturned just after rounding the rock. Not a good omen for a passage. But we left Kinsale with the tide and headed for the Scillies. We had a good wind to start and it was predicted to be force 5-6 for the trip. The seas were at least 2 meters on the beam, not a happy motion. By 1PM the wind was gone and we were motoring despite the small craft warning
A Captain Ahab Moment (Almost)
All trip I have been hoping to see a whale and disappointed that we were leaving the colder seas without a sighting. Out of Kinsale however, I saw a group of dolphins acting oddly. We were still sailing and it was quiet. I went to look over the side at the dolphins when I spotted a large spray of water about 50 feet off the port bow. HUM. Second spray of water behind the first and getting closer. Third spray of water almost at the bow. Time to take avoidance action. So 3 lovely whales serenely floated across our bows as we serenely sailed behind to avoid them. For the rest of the trip I recalled all the stories I have ever read about boats being holed by sea mammals, all sinking within 11 seconds. However, that was offset by the sighting and the tranquility of the 3 whales enjoying a fine sunny day.
We completed the trip in 22 hours arriving at 6 AM, to take a mooring, and go to sleep. All along the way the smaller Fastnet boats passed us, so we never felt alone. Prince Charles as Duke of Cornwall exercises his right to charge for the use of his land under the water. Mooring cost: 20 pounds. We only paid for a mooring 1 other time otherwise they were always free. He also charges to anchor, just less.
The Scillies were lovely but the anchorage was very rolly. We cleaned up the boat a bit and made realy for the next leg.
Thursday, August 18. Scillies to Loctudy, France.
We left the Scillies at sunrise with a good wind but with a warning of strong winds around the islands. Outside the harbor we danced around the Fastnet boats all coming back from the rock. This time they were not spread out and all really pushing. Again we found the seas to have 2 meter swells on the beams and unplesant. By 1 PM we were motoring again. No wind was getting old.
We motored all the way to Loctudy south of Brest. We were hoping to stop over on the Iles of Glenan but we needed fuel so ended up here in this very quaint Brittany fishing village. We are in a marina which is packed full of boats and vacationers. We are in the height of the French holidays and everyone is enjoying the warm and sunny weather here. Dante and Calypso are quite the show.
Tomorrow we continue our route south to Port Medoc. No more all-nighters, we will mosy down the coast and take about 4 days to get to our marina.
A Captain Ahab Moment (Almost)
All trip I have been hoping to see a whale and disappointed that we were leaving the colder seas without a sighting. Out of Kinsale however, I saw a group of dolphins acting oddly. We were still sailing and it was quiet. I went to look over the side at the dolphins when I spotted a large spray of water about 50 feet off the port bow. HUM. Second spray of water behind the first and getting closer. Third spray of water almost at the bow. Time to take avoidance action. So 3 lovely whales serenely floated across our bows as we serenely sailed behind to avoid them. For the rest of the trip I recalled all the stories I have ever read about boats being holed by sea mammals, all sinking within 11 seconds. However, that was offset by the sighting and the tranquility of the 3 whales enjoying a fine sunny day.
We completed the trip in 22 hours arriving at 6 AM, to take a mooring, and go to sleep. All along the way the smaller Fastnet boats passed us, so we never felt alone. Prince Charles as Duke of Cornwall exercises his right to charge for the use of his land under the water. Mooring cost: 20 pounds. We only paid for a mooring 1 other time otherwise they were always free. He also charges to anchor, just less.
The Scillies were lovely but the anchorage was very rolly. We cleaned up the boat a bit and made realy for the next leg.
Thursday, August 18. Scillies to Loctudy, France.
We left the Scillies at sunrise with a good wind but with a warning of strong winds around the islands. Outside the harbor we danced around the Fastnet boats all coming back from the rock. This time they were not spread out and all really pushing. Again we found the seas to have 2 meter swells on the beams and unplesant. By 1 PM we were motoring again. No wind was getting old.
We motored all the way to Loctudy south of Brest. We were hoping to stop over on the Iles of Glenan but we needed fuel so ended up here in this very quaint Brittany fishing village. We are in a marina which is packed full of boats and vacationers. We are in the height of the French holidays and everyone is enjoying the warm and sunny weather here. Dante and Calypso are quite the show.
Tomorrow we continue our route south to Port Medoc. No more all-nighters, we will mosy down the coast and take about 4 days to get to our marina.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Weather Window
Sunday & Monday, August 14 &15. We arrived in Kinsale yesterday afternoon after a wonderful sail. The town is very picturesque and it was packed with French and American tourists. This is the gourmet capital of Ireland so we had dinner at a restaurant called Max's. It was wonderful food and a nice menu to choose from.
Looks like tomorrow we will have good weather for the next few days to get us back to France, so we are planning on taking advantage of it. We will leave for the Isles of Scilly around 9 AM. It should be a 24 hour sail. Thursday wind is supposed to turn north which will give us a good sail over to France. We would like to make it as far as the Isles de Glennan where we stopped on our way up.
So we will wait until the morning forecast to make a final decision about leaving but right now it is looking that way. We have filled the tank with fuel and the necessary food is aboard.
Looks like tomorrow we will have good weather for the next few days to get us back to France, so we are planning on taking advantage of it. We will leave for the Isles of Scilly around 9 AM. It should be a 24 hour sail. Thursday wind is supposed to turn north which will give us a good sail over to France. We would like to make it as far as the Isles de Glennan where we stopped on our way up.
So we will wait until the morning forecast to make a final decision about leaving but right now it is looking that way. We have filled the tank with fuel and the necessary food is aboard.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Aran to Valencia
Aran Isles, Doolin, Kilrush, Valencia
Tuesday, August 2. After leaving Roundstone, we headed for Inishmore, the largest of the 3 islands knows as the Aran Isles. Not a bad sail although seas were not Calypso friendly, with winds from the northwest. We took a visitor mooring in the new and still under construction ferry port in Kilronan. We arrived mid-afternoon and took the dingy into town. Our plans were to meet up with our Irish friends again who would take a ferry from their home in Doolin the next day. We would spend a day on Aran and then sail down to Kilrush on Thursday.
Inishmore is a beautiful island and a MAJOR tourist destination. Ferries come from several towns hauling hundreds of holiday-makers to the island every day. They are met by jaunting cars (pony and trap) or mini busses to take them on tours around the island. Like clockwork, our friends arrived on the morning ferry from Doolin and we spent the day touring the island. We took a mini bus around for half a tour and let the driver go at the Iron Age fort Dun Aonghasa. This is a stone fort built on a rock promontory. The scenery is spectacular and is definitely worth the journey. We walked back to Kilronan and finished the day with a delicious meal on board. We had Burren smoked salmon and mackerel from a prize-winning small producer near Doolin who is currently in the US meeting with Dean and DeLucca about carrying her smoked fish.
Thursday, August 4. Kilronan to Kilrush. The sail from the Aran isles passes the Cliffs of Moher which is considered some of the most dramatic coastline in Ireland. We planned this trip for Thursday because the weather was forecast to be relatively good. One thing we have learned about weather in Ireland is: it is not predictable. We sailed out near 8 AM in not terrible conditions but by the time we had passed Inishmann conditions we deteriorating. Visibility was decreasing and seas were kicking up. We ended up experiencing the roughest seas of our whole trip and the visibility was not such that we could really appreciate the coastline. Once we rounded Loop Head and entered the Shannon River sea state calmed somewhat and our last 2 hours were passed pleasantly. We off loaded the cats and went to spend a couple of days with our friends in their home.
Friday, August 5. The Doolin Respite. Doolin is renowned as a center for traditional music. It is also in a very particular geological region called the Burren where there is a vast limestone plateau. We spent 3 days seeing the local sights while eating scones along the way and dining on fish and chips in the pub which draws crowds for nightly music, and some excellent home cooking. Dante and Calypso thought they had died and gone to heaven. They spent 3 days in a house with lots of windows from which to watch interesting things. They were also able to go outside themselves to explore and eat grass. They were really hoping to be adopted by the nice Irish couple and never have to go back on the boat again. But no. Sunday morning came and they were in their carriers again in a car driving back to Kilrush Marina and the dreaded boat.
Sunday, August 7. We are in a marina for the first time since Troon. The only thing we want to do is laundry. So that is how we spent the afternoon through evening. This marina has a home not commercial washing machine and dryer so it took many, many hours to do most of what we needed wash. Some things will wait until we get back home. On Monday, we walked around Kilrush, did a final shop of fresh fruit and veg, filled water tanks, and washed the boat. There is a lock to get in and out of the marina which operates from 9 AM to 9 PM. We planned to be out on the tide at 6 AM on Tuesday so at 9 PM we locked out of Kilrush Creek to spend the night in the sea lock.
Tuesday, August 9. Kilrush to Valencia. We left Kilrush as planned at 6 AM and had a lovely sail down the Shannon River. Once we got out to the coast however, the winds soon died then changed direction so that we were heading into them, and then they freshened. Seas were once again rough until we passed behind the Blasket Islands. Our original destination was the Blaskets but with the weather deteriorating and Irish coast guard predicting gales for the next day, we decided to make for Valencia which is well protected. We found that a marina was here, still under construction but completed enough for us to tie up to its floating pier.
Valencia is a lovely small island with a new port built to accommodate water sports for children. Kids were kayaking, swimming, and jumping on a floating trampoline inside the protection of 3 sea walls and the floating pier. A ferry ride of no more than 5 minutes connects Valencia to the mainland. We enjoyed a walk around the town and sat down for a relaxing Guinness. Weather continued to deteriorate and we planned for another day here.
Wednesday, August 10. It is mid afternoon as I catch up on my trip log. We have been battered by winds and rain for hours now. This is the first storm we have had to sit out since Penzance, not bad for 2 months on the go. It has given us time to plan our trip back to France. We lost the red running light on the way down to Kilrush so we have to replace that before doing much else. There are few marinas and even fewer chandlers here so we do not know where we will find the replacement. Tomorrow we are heading to Baltimore (NOT). RXC likes to say we started this trip out from Balmor, MD so it is fitting we should stop at the one over here. Hopefully, there will be a chandler there that will have something we can use for the trip back.
If the storm lessens a bit, we will go have a coffee at an internet café and I will be able to get this posted. Our internet connectivity has been the main frustration of the trip. Not only has it been infrequent but increasingly we try to connect to a hot spot only to find our US computers cannot read the signal. We have set up accounts that are supposed to give us good coverage such as Boingo but they have not worked. When we can catch something at cafes, we have to try to remember to check so many things beside email such as bills, bank and credit cards statements, weather, etc. This is the one thing that has been fairly problematic for the trip as we depend on the web for so many things.
Friday, August 12. We are still in Valencia. The weather has kept us pier bound. Tomorrow predictions are for lighter winds, we will see. If we get out we will try to get as far as Kilmore. from there we will jump to the Scillies when we get a weather window. Weather is supposed to be poor through the middle of next week at least. From the Scillies we will head to La Coquette north or Brest or the Isles of Glennan.
Tuesday, August 2. After leaving Roundstone, we headed for Inishmore, the largest of the 3 islands knows as the Aran Isles. Not a bad sail although seas were not Calypso friendly, with winds from the northwest. We took a visitor mooring in the new and still under construction ferry port in Kilronan. We arrived mid-afternoon and took the dingy into town. Our plans were to meet up with our Irish friends again who would take a ferry from their home in Doolin the next day. We would spend a day on Aran and then sail down to Kilrush on Thursday.
Inishmore is a beautiful island and a MAJOR tourist destination. Ferries come from several towns hauling hundreds of holiday-makers to the island every day. They are met by jaunting cars (pony and trap) or mini busses to take them on tours around the island. Like clockwork, our friends arrived on the morning ferry from Doolin and we spent the day touring the island. We took a mini bus around for half a tour and let the driver go at the Iron Age fort Dun Aonghasa. This is a stone fort built on a rock promontory. The scenery is spectacular and is definitely worth the journey. We walked back to Kilronan and finished the day with a delicious meal on board. We had Burren smoked salmon and mackerel from a prize-winning small producer near Doolin who is currently in the US meeting with Dean and DeLucca about carrying her smoked fish.
Thursday, August 4. Kilronan to Kilrush. The sail from the Aran isles passes the Cliffs of Moher which is considered some of the most dramatic coastline in Ireland. We planned this trip for Thursday because the weather was forecast to be relatively good. One thing we have learned about weather in Ireland is: it is not predictable. We sailed out near 8 AM in not terrible conditions but by the time we had passed Inishmann conditions we deteriorating. Visibility was decreasing and seas were kicking up. We ended up experiencing the roughest seas of our whole trip and the visibility was not such that we could really appreciate the coastline. Once we rounded Loop Head and entered the Shannon River sea state calmed somewhat and our last 2 hours were passed pleasantly. We off loaded the cats and went to spend a couple of days with our friends in their home.
Friday, August 5. The Doolin Respite. Doolin is renowned as a center for traditional music. It is also in a very particular geological region called the Burren where there is a vast limestone plateau. We spent 3 days seeing the local sights while eating scones along the way and dining on fish and chips in the pub which draws crowds for nightly music, and some excellent home cooking. Dante and Calypso thought they had died and gone to heaven. They spent 3 days in a house with lots of windows from which to watch interesting things. They were also able to go outside themselves to explore and eat grass. They were really hoping to be adopted by the nice Irish couple and never have to go back on the boat again. But no. Sunday morning came and they were in their carriers again in a car driving back to Kilrush Marina and the dreaded boat.
Sunday, August 7. We are in a marina for the first time since Troon. The only thing we want to do is laundry. So that is how we spent the afternoon through evening. This marina has a home not commercial washing machine and dryer so it took many, many hours to do most of what we needed wash. Some things will wait until we get back home. On Monday, we walked around Kilrush, did a final shop of fresh fruit and veg, filled water tanks, and washed the boat. There is a lock to get in and out of the marina which operates from 9 AM to 9 PM. We planned to be out on the tide at 6 AM on Tuesday so at 9 PM we locked out of Kilrush Creek to spend the night in the sea lock.
Tuesday, August 9. Kilrush to Valencia. We left Kilrush as planned at 6 AM and had a lovely sail down the Shannon River. Once we got out to the coast however, the winds soon died then changed direction so that we were heading into them, and then they freshened. Seas were once again rough until we passed behind the Blasket Islands. Our original destination was the Blaskets but with the weather deteriorating and Irish coast guard predicting gales for the next day, we decided to make for Valencia which is well protected. We found that a marina was here, still under construction but completed enough for us to tie up to its floating pier.
Valencia is a lovely small island with a new port built to accommodate water sports for children. Kids were kayaking, swimming, and jumping on a floating trampoline inside the protection of 3 sea walls and the floating pier. A ferry ride of no more than 5 minutes connects Valencia to the mainland. We enjoyed a walk around the town and sat down for a relaxing Guinness. Weather continued to deteriorate and we planned for another day here.
Wednesday, August 10. It is mid afternoon as I catch up on my trip log. We have been battered by winds and rain for hours now. This is the first storm we have had to sit out since Penzance, not bad for 2 months on the go. It has given us time to plan our trip back to France. We lost the red running light on the way down to Kilrush so we have to replace that before doing much else. There are few marinas and even fewer chandlers here so we do not know where we will find the replacement. Tomorrow we are heading to Baltimore (NOT). RXC likes to say we started this trip out from Balmor, MD so it is fitting we should stop at the one over here. Hopefully, there will be a chandler there that will have something we can use for the trip back.
If the storm lessens a bit, we will go have a coffee at an internet café and I will be able to get this posted. Our internet connectivity has been the main frustration of the trip. Not only has it been infrequent but increasingly we try to connect to a hot spot only to find our US computers cannot read the signal. We have set up accounts that are supposed to give us good coverage such as Boingo but they have not worked. When we can catch something at cafes, we have to try to remember to check so many things beside email such as bills, bank and credit cards statements, weather, etc. This is the one thing that has been fairly problematic for the trip as we depend on the web for so many things.
Friday, August 12. We are still in Valencia. The weather has kept us pier bound. Tomorrow predictions are for lighter winds, we will see. If we get out we will try to get as far as Kilmore. from there we will jump to the Scillies when we get a weather window. Weather is supposed to be poor through the middle of next week at least. From the Scillies we will head to La Coquette north or Brest or the Isles of Glennan.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
A Day in Galway
Monday, August 1: Galway. We took the bus into Galway on Bank Holiday Monday. The inland scenery was just beautiful. We saw the sights in town which was winding down from a festival weekend. We were to meet up with friends for lunch who were also coming into town by bus. Amazingly, all transportation details worked out. We found each other, had a great visit, and a very fine lunch. Our respective buses left Galway at 6 PM and 6:15 PM. Back in Roundstone at 7:45 PM we were astonished by the crowds of people standing in the road, we thought it was a parade! No just folks having drinks outdoors in the evening sunshine. This is the major vacation time in Ireland and obviously people were taking advantage. Roundstone is also a place where the more affluent Dubliners come to holiday, but we also heard quite a few folks speaking with English accents too. Tomorrow we are off to the Aran Islands.
Sunday, July 31, 2011
The West Coast
Killybegs
Tuesday, July 26. Touring by Bus. The mooring we took belonged to a sailboat which was scheduled to return today. We picked it up because it was yellow which in EU land is supposed to mean it is a visitor’s buoy. But here visitors are to tie up on the town pier where there are both small and huge fishing vessels. We wanted to do some touring today so we got up early to be able to move the boat. We tried to find a place to anchor given the alternative but no anchorage was to be found. The harbor is full of fish farms. Reluctantly, we tied up to a 45 foot fishing boat which was outboard of a 60 foot one. We hung around until we could contact the harbormaster who said the boats were not scheduled to go out for awhile so we were good to stay.
Numerous folks here talked about how depressed the fishing industry is here. The EU imposed quotas so boats only go out about 4 months a year. The rest of the time they are virtually mothballed. The town is quite small and dependant on the fishermen.
We took a bus to the lively weaving village of Ardara. Only 1 bus a day goes there leaving Killybegs at 10:45 AM. Only 1 bus comes back to Killybegs at noon. Not much time to spend in town. From Ardara we could get a bus to Donegal also at noon. But from Donegal we could get a bus back to Killybegs in the late afternoon. So we boarded the bus for our day out.
Ardara was lovely, had better services than Killybegs, had lots of tourists visiting the weavers, and generally was a very pleasant village. We made good use of our hour there and then off to Donegal at noon.
It is nice to get off the boat and see the inland countryside. The decent into Donegal with a view of the bay was glorious. We would have sailed there but the harbor dries out which is why we extended our stay in Killybegs and decided on taking the bus.
Donegal was very busy with tourists. We found a small gourmet food shop there that sold amazing Irish cheeses and a very unusual bacon. They also stocked wine from a winery we like near Le Fleix. We were able to stock up on fruit and veg. We were back in Killybegs by 6 PM.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011: A Day for the Boat. After a month on the go, there was a lot of boat maintenance and cleaning to do. We started the morning off by sending RXC up to the top of the mast, my favorite activity. Various repairs were accomplished, line for the topping lift was replaced, but to repair an antenna would require a second trip up to the top. Unfortunately, it began to rain so that second trip is put off until another day.
While up the mast RXC noticed what he thought was a problem with the engine’s turbo charger. So his next project was to search for a Yanmar mechanic. A trip back to the shop where the line was purchased was fruitful. He was hooked up with a mechanic who came by to look at the engine within the hour. As it turned out, there was no problem so we can be on our way tomorrow.
Thursday, July 28, 2011: Killybegs to Broadhaven: Crummy weather, crummy seas, crummy sail. We left Killybegs at 7:45 AM in sunshine and light winds. Within the hour it clouded over and the winds kicked up. The seas were 2-3 meters and very lumpy and confused. We had a 60 mile sail, all of it unpleasant. We banged badly and one wave knocked out our wind instrument. We still have wind direction but do not know the speed. Finding out what part is needed will take another trip up the mast. Our compensation for such a lousy day was a welcome by about 40 dolphins that came swimming towards the boat to usher us down the river to a mooring. The anchorage was not that much calmer that the seas.
Friday, July 29, 2011: Broadhaven to Killary Harbor. Today’s sail was only slightly better than yesterday’s. Seas were still lumpy, wind was still strong, and it rained. We were about an hour and a half away from stopping for the evening when we picked up a lobster pot. We could not get it off the prop using a boat hook so it took RXC donning his dive gear and going overboard to release it. The boat was bobbing away and it took about an hour to release us. We finished our sail another 60miles and anchored in tiny bay with beautiful scenery. This anchorage was a bit calmer.
Saturday, July 30, 2011: Killary Harbor to Roundstone. A third day of crummy seas and weather. It was clear and bright in the early morning, so we washed down the boat. We started out about 10 AM just when the clouds moved in. The sailing conditions had changed little. We sailed and motored around Slyne Head to ease the banging of the bow. We arrived in Roundstone which is a quaint village built on a hill. We plan to stay here a couple of days at least until the seas change.
Sunday, July 31, 2011: Roundstone. This is a Bank Holiday Weekend in Ireland so things are busy. The tiny village is bustling with tourists and the pubs and restaurants are overflowing. We had a good pub lunch of smoked salmon sandwich and seafood chowder. It is still rainy but the wind seems to have eased. We are trying to go to Galway by bus from here to meet friends but it might just be easier to meet them on Aran Island because busses don’t run on Sunday and will run on a holiday schedule tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Adieu Scotland
Port Ellen, Islay to Sheep Haven, Ireland: Across the North Channel
Saturday, July 23. Back to watching tides, currents, sea state, and weather. We needed to set out from Port Ellen at 5 AM to catch a favorable push across the North Channel to Ireland. Our intended destination was Lough Swilley, which is in the Republic of Ireland and 50 odd miles from Port Ellen. We were up at 4 AM to get ourselves ready to get underway. We were rewarded by the most magnificent sunrise over Islay. There was a Force 5 wind coming out of the northwest and a smooth sea state (just the way Pumpkin likes it). We set out on what turned out to be our best sail of the trip. The sun was shining, the winds were steady and from the right direction, there were no swells and we booked it across the channel. When we got to Malin Head it was still early in the day, conditions were still perfect, and we were still having a great time. We decided to pass Lough Swilly and head towards Sheep Haven which aside from a great name got us in a good position to round Bloody Foreland the next day. We travelled 62 nautical miles in 9 hours.
Sheep Haven has beautiful beaches and there were a lot of people out enjoying them. The anchorage there has visitor moorings so we picked up a mooring and enjoyed the show on the beach. We spent a relaxed and quite evening but early to bed as we had to be off again about 5 AM the next morning.
Sheep Haven to Aranmore Island: Diesel and The Lobster Pot
Sunday, July 24. Light wind between Force 2 and 3 would usually have us motor sailing but today we have only a third of a tank of fuel left so we are sailing. It is very slow going, eventually the wind dies, and the current turn against us so we are forced to motor. We decide to make for a town called Burtonport for fuel. Being a Sunday we were worried that the fuel dock would be closed. Burtonport has a ferry service every 10 minutes to the nearby island of Aranmore so it is all diesel al the time there. We got the tank filled, just as a Customs boat came into the harbor. Are they looking for us? We went off to have a seafood lunch at the Lobster Pot where an enormous lobster decorates the façade. By the time we got back to the boat Customs had decided to go ashore and get their own lunch perhaps. So we motored off to look for an anchorage for the evening. We went around to the south side of Aranmore and anchored in a protected cove.
Monday, July 25. Aranmore to Killybegs: We are boarded. We left Aranmore to sail along some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe. Spectacular rugged cliffs and waterfalls and white beaches were our views for the whole trip to Killybegs where we were planning on spending a few days. Just outside of Killybegs, the Customs ship is coming up to coast towards us. Yes they were looking for us yesterday and they found us today. They stopped the ship, launched a dingy and before we knew it they were politely asking if they could come aboard. Papers in order, pets imported legally, all in order we can go on our merry way. We arrived in Killybegs which is very much a fishing town. There was a mooring that we picked up for the night.
Saturday, July 23. Back to watching tides, currents, sea state, and weather. We needed to set out from Port Ellen at 5 AM to catch a favorable push across the North Channel to Ireland. Our intended destination was Lough Swilley, which is in the Republic of Ireland and 50 odd miles from Port Ellen. We were up at 4 AM to get ourselves ready to get underway. We were rewarded by the most magnificent sunrise over Islay. There was a Force 5 wind coming out of the northwest and a smooth sea state (just the way Pumpkin likes it). We set out on what turned out to be our best sail of the trip. The sun was shining, the winds were steady and from the right direction, there were no swells and we booked it across the channel. When we got to Malin Head it was still early in the day, conditions were still perfect, and we were still having a great time. We decided to pass Lough Swilly and head towards Sheep Haven which aside from a great name got us in a good position to round Bloody Foreland the next day. We travelled 62 nautical miles in 9 hours.
Sheep Haven has beautiful beaches and there were a lot of people out enjoying them. The anchorage there has visitor moorings so we picked up a mooring and enjoyed the show on the beach. We spent a relaxed and quite evening but early to bed as we had to be off again about 5 AM the next morning.
Sheep Haven to Aranmore Island: Diesel and The Lobster Pot
Sunday, July 24. Light wind between Force 2 and 3 would usually have us motor sailing but today we have only a third of a tank of fuel left so we are sailing. It is very slow going, eventually the wind dies, and the current turn against us so we are forced to motor. We decide to make for a town called Burtonport for fuel. Being a Sunday we were worried that the fuel dock would be closed. Burtonport has a ferry service every 10 minutes to the nearby island of Aranmore so it is all diesel al the time there. We got the tank filled, just as a Customs boat came into the harbor. Are they looking for us? We went off to have a seafood lunch at the Lobster Pot where an enormous lobster decorates the façade. By the time we got back to the boat Customs had decided to go ashore and get their own lunch perhaps. So we motored off to look for an anchorage for the evening. We went around to the south side of Aranmore and anchored in a protected cove.
Monday, July 25. Aranmore to Killybegs: We are boarded. We left Aranmore to sail along some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe. Spectacular rugged cliffs and waterfalls and white beaches were our views for the whole trip to Killybegs where we were planning on spending a few days. Just outside of Killybegs, the Customs ship is coming up to coast towards us. Yes they were looking for us yesterday and they found us today. They stopped the ship, launched a dingy and before we knew it they were politely asking if they could come aboard. Papers in order, pets imported legally, all in order we can go on our merry way. We arrived in Killybegs which is very much a fishing town. There was a mooring that we picked up for the night.
Friday, July 22, 2011
The Rest of the Malts Cruise
Out of Tobermory to Loch Sunart
In my last posting I mentioned that we had a group dinner Monday evening, July 11, in Tobermory. The next day boats would go their own way until Friday when another rendezvous was planned. The dinner was at the Western Isles Hotel and it was FABULOUS. It was a buffet of local seafood and nothing was spared. There were crabs, langoustines, and salmon, to mention only a few of the delicacies. A piper welcomed us to the hotel and later piped us into the buffet. We were offered a welcoming dram of the Tobermory Distillery’s best actually 2 different whiskies, both excellent but hard to find outside of Scotland we are told. We enjoyed our evening and met more of the interesting people who are on this cruise.
Tuesday, July 12. We were scheduled for a morning tour of the Tobermory Distillery. We needed to do a bit of shopping so it was past lunch time when we got back to the boat. We decided to go only as far as Loch Sunart which was just across the Sound of Mull for the evening as there was virtually no wind. The next day we would have to go around Ardnamurchan Point which has a notorious reputation so we wanted to take it easy after our busy morning. We went into a picturesque bay named Drumbuie where we spent the night. About 8 boats were there.
Wednesday, July 13. The next morning we set out in a light wind and flat seas making our rounding of Ardnamurchan Point completely without drama. Eventually, the wind picked up and we had a glorious sail around the isle of Muck then the wind died. We were planning to visit Loch Moidart that evening which is said to be one of the loveliest anchorages on the western coast. But with no wind at about 2 PM we decided rather than motor for several hours to get there we would anchor on the southeast coast of Eigg. We found a deep pool in an area without boats. The next morning we pulled out the jib and coasted all the way to our next destination, the island of Rum.
RUM
Thursday, July 14. Rum is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and is quite mountainous. We arrived in Loch Scresort a day earlier than the cruise schedule so that we could get off the boat and hike a bit. Wednesday afternoon we took a rather easy walk up a glen in “persistent” rain. Then we called into the only café where about 11 cruisers were having their afternoon cuppa and swapping stories. Only one set was from the Malts Cruise. About 6 boats were in the Loch that evening.
Friday, July 15. We got off the boat early and made a rigorous hike up to a caldera where we had a spectacular view of the boats in the bay. We had a tour scheduled for the afternoon.
Rum is owned by the National Conservancy of Scotland and is primarily a nature preserve. But there is the 19th Kinloch Castle on the island built facing Loch Scresort. It is the most complete example of an Edwardian furnished stately home in the UK. We toured the house which was a conservator’s nightmare. Then we headed for a lecture about Rum by the island’s only ranger/interpreter. The evening barbecue was held in the tiny village hall and it was excellent. It was catered by 2 young women who did the serving of the local venison delicacies from outside the hall in force 7 winds and heavy rain with only the fly of a large tent covering them. Again there was a bit of bagpipe playing to close the evening.
RESCUE US
Back Story: We began our trip out of Port Medoc by helping a new acquaintance bail his sinking wooden boat after it was put into the water. It had been on land for bottom work for a couple of weeks and it was so hot and dry in France, that the planks of the hull dried out enough that when launched, and by the time he got the boat over to his slip it was taking on water so seriously that his pump could not keep up with it and it was sinking. His was the last boat launched before lunch so no help was to be found at the travel lift to get him back out of the water. His wife drove around to ask us to help which we did by RXC using a hand pump in the cockpit while the owner used a battery powered pump inside the boat to keep her afloat. The wife finally found someone who could contact the dock workers. For emergencies, the French will come back to work from lunch so the boat was re-hauled and left to be worked on another day.
Back to Rum: RXC and I are walking back to the harbor after dinner (earlier than most folks but probably about 10 PM) and we look out to see a boat lumbering on the shoreline among the rocks. She was behind Petillant and remember I said it is blowing stink and pouring rain which were perfect conditions for anchor failure. At the opening talk for the Malts Cruise, it was recommended that we leave keys in the ignition in case of an emergency. We took off for the wayward boat and I hopped on board and yes there are the keys and the engine starts! RXC ties up the dingy, gets on board and oh happy day the windless controls are there too. We get the anchor up which is covered with weed and a metal crab cage. We got the boat off the rocks and called to a group coming back to their boat to help us and get the owners who were still partying at the hall, which they did.
The village hall was quite a far distance from the harbor so we milled about for 45 minutes until the owners arrived. I have never been so wet in my life as the boat had no bimini. We got back to Petillant and needed to dry off and warm up. This boat had dragged completely across the loch but luckily damaged no boats along the way. Later that night we were making one final check outside and there was yet another boat back of us in nearly the same position the boat we rescued. We had our fill of rescuing boats and hoped that there were people on board who would figure out they were on the rocks.
Saturday, July 19. By morning the storm had passed although bad weather was predicted for the next few days. We had hoped to go on an eagle walk but that had to be cancelled because of poor visibility. So about 11 am, we pulled out our jib again and sailed to the Isle of Canna.
CANNA
Canna is owned by the National Trust of Scotland. Its climate is generally better than its neighbors as we can attest. We anchored in Canna Harbor where there was only one small fishing boat. We were basking in sunshine as we watched the gray clouds and rain envelope Rum only a few miles away. There were Highland Cattle grazing close to shore, lovely stone buildings surrounding the bay, and seals popping their heads up begging for treats.
Spray of Wight a classic gaff-rigged catch and the Malts Cruise “Head Boat” glided into the harbor, so now we were two. We walked a bit around the island which had a completely different feel from the others we had visited. More flat but utterly green bathed in the afternoon sunlight, one could imagine staying at anchor here for another week at least.
Spray of Wight organized and hosted the whisky nosing and tastings, so that evening we had our chance to taste and discuss whisky with the expert from Diageo. We brought goose and duck foie to share and discuss what whisky to pair with them. We learned quite a bit felt very lucky to have had such a personalized tasting.
Sunday, July 20. Predictions were for the weather to deteriorate and there was a gale warning for Mallin our destination area. Spray was going to Coll and we were thinking of going to Gometre or Ulva. Both could be achieved by sailing downwind in force 7 winds without distress. We headed out for Gometre at about 11 AM in light winds and sunshine. But true to forecast once we left Canna we had strong winds and the seas were kicking up. At one point we clocked winds at Force 8, make that gale Force 8. It rained, we were cold, visibility was not great, the cats were very unhappy, but the jib was fully out and we surfed down to Gometre sometimes at 11 knots. We got in the tiny harbor to find one boat there already but sensibly placed to permit another boat to anchor. We dropped the hook in Force 7 winds plus heavy rain and had one heck of a ride that night.
Monday, July 21. By morning all was calm, the sun was out, the seas were flat, and weather predictions were still for strong winds and gales. But not right now. We once again pulled out the jib and headed towards the south coast of Mull to Ardalanish a tiny inlet on the Ross of Mull. No “bigger than a bread box” we dropped anchor in a walled cove in sunshine and little wind. By evening the Highland cows came down to the edge of the cliffs to graze. The cove can safely hold only one boat and about 6 PM another boat tried to anchor less that a boat length away from us. We told them there was an identical cove around the corner where they could anchor but they said no. We warned them that they were too close but they persisted. Finally the winds swung us close enough that they did go to the next inlet over, perfectly lovely and about the same size and protection. We had sunshine but later force 7 winds kicked up so it was a good thing they left.
Tuesday, July 19. Our next destination was Loch Tarbet on Jura for another rendezvous and picnic. Once again we could pull out the jib and sail downwind for a great day of sailing. Malts Cruise boats were streaming into the Loch and we were able to sail all the way into the anchorage. We found a beautiful, large bay which reminded of us Shaw Bay. We anchored and got ready to go ashore for the 5 PM dram and canapés that were selected to go with the various malts on offer. At 6 PM a barbeque was catered by the gentleman we bought our fresh seafood from back in Oban.
Loch Tarbet is the most remote loch in the isles as there is no road there. So our chef sailed in with the mussels, venison steaks, and homemade shortbread dessert, not to mention the pots, pans, and charcoal. The food was delicious enhanced by the setting and camaraderie. Two pipers played that evening as well.
Wednesday, July 20. We did not read the program schedule thoroughly and we thought we could sail to Gigha for the evening and then to Port Ellen for the final day of activities which in our minds were 2 days away. We did not get up early after the party ashore and it was very foggy that morning so we did not even open the companion way doors to look outside. After tea and breakfast, when we did look out the 30 or 40 boats in the anchorage were gone. As it turned out we needed to get to Port Ellen today because we had signed up for a 9 AM tour of Islay the next day. Tides and current were such that the boats left early to catch the push to get them down the Sound of Islay. So in dense fog and no wind we left Loch Tarbet wishing we had one more day of sailing before the rally ended. We were still out enough to get a good push from the current, so we got through the Sound of Islay before it ran against us. The sun came out as we coasted along Islay toward Port Ellen passing one distillery after another: Caol Ila, Ardberg, Laphhroaig, Lagavulin….
When we got to Port Ellen all of pontoons and moorings were taken so we anchored quite far from the marina pier for the evening.
Thursday, July 21. Our wrap up. At 9 AM we were on the bus taking a half day tour of Islay. We went to an archaeological site where the first seat of government was established for the island. The “Lords of the Isles” ruled this area for centuries until James II broke their power and demolished their communities. There were the ruins of a church, great hall, and early stone carvings including a cross set in a remote and haunting location.
Next we went on to a great house with a magnificent garden where in order to maintain it they community has put into use for those who want to come and harvest your own fruit and vegetables as a modest cost. We bought lettuce, parsley, and a yellow courgette. Also in this village was the island’s only brewery. The beer is distinguished by the fact that they used the peated malt which the island is famous for. The beers were like nothing we had ever tasted. Of course, we bought a selection of the darker brews. Good thing we were on a bus and had a very long dingy ride back to the boat or there would have been more purchased.
Our last stop was in the town of Bowmore where we bought venison steak at t
he local butcher and stocked up on yogurt and plants of fresh herbs from the grocery shop. In the afternoon we toured the Lagavulin Distillery where we had to wait for an hour for our tour as we were waiting for some Belgian cyclists to join us. They plied us with many drams to ease our wait. We bought an amazing whisky available only at the distillery and feel here at the end of it all we have an impressive selection of island whiskies to get us through the year!
Our final gathering began with a dram and canapés on the shore again with pipers. Since boats had been following their own whims it was a time to catch up and swap stories of where they had been and their adventures. This was followed by a seafood buffet and a final ceilidh. Most boats were planning to leave early in the morning, many folks bemoaning the fact they had to be back to work on Monday.
Friday, July 22, 2011. Today is our final day in Scotland. I am hoping that I can find wifi ashore someplace and I can get this narrative posted. Photos on the Flickr account will take much more powerful internet connection than I suspect is here in Islay. We want to find haggis for lunch somewhere and walk around town. Tomorrow we head for Ireland as we begin to make our way back towards France. This should take 4-5 weeks. Thankfully, we do not have to be back to work on Monday!
In my last posting I mentioned that we had a group dinner Monday evening, July 11, in Tobermory. The next day boats would go their own way until Friday when another rendezvous was planned. The dinner was at the Western Isles Hotel and it was FABULOUS. It was a buffet of local seafood and nothing was spared. There were crabs, langoustines, and salmon, to mention only a few of the delicacies. A piper welcomed us to the hotel and later piped us into the buffet. We were offered a welcoming dram of the Tobermory Distillery’s best actually 2 different whiskies, both excellent but hard to find outside of Scotland we are told. We enjoyed our evening and met more of the interesting people who are on this cruise.
Tuesday, July 12. We were scheduled for a morning tour of the Tobermory Distillery. We needed to do a bit of shopping so it was past lunch time when we got back to the boat. We decided to go only as far as Loch Sunart which was just across the Sound of Mull for the evening as there was virtually no wind. The next day we would have to go around Ardnamurchan Point which has a notorious reputation so we wanted to take it easy after our busy morning. We went into a picturesque bay named Drumbuie where we spent the night. About 8 boats were there.
Wednesday, July 13. The next morning we set out in a light wind and flat seas making our rounding of Ardnamurchan Point completely without drama. Eventually, the wind picked up and we had a glorious sail around the isle of Muck then the wind died. We were planning to visit Loch Moidart that evening which is said to be one of the loveliest anchorages on the western coast. But with no wind at about 2 PM we decided rather than motor for several hours to get there we would anchor on the southeast coast of Eigg. We found a deep pool in an area without boats. The next morning we pulled out the jib and coasted all the way to our next destination, the island of Rum.
RUM
Thursday, July 14. Rum is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and is quite mountainous. We arrived in Loch Scresort a day earlier than the cruise schedule so that we could get off the boat and hike a bit. Wednesday afternoon we took a rather easy walk up a glen in “persistent” rain. Then we called into the only café where about 11 cruisers were having their afternoon cuppa and swapping stories. Only one set was from the Malts Cruise. About 6 boats were in the Loch that evening.
Friday, July 15. We got off the boat early and made a rigorous hike up to a caldera where we had a spectacular view of the boats in the bay. We had a tour scheduled for the afternoon.
Rum is owned by the National Conservancy of Scotland and is primarily a nature preserve. But there is the 19th Kinloch Castle on the island built facing Loch Scresort. It is the most complete example of an Edwardian furnished stately home in the UK. We toured the house which was a conservator’s nightmare. Then we headed for a lecture about Rum by the island’s only ranger/interpreter. The evening barbecue was held in the tiny village hall and it was excellent. It was catered by 2 young women who did the serving of the local venison delicacies from outside the hall in force 7 winds and heavy rain with only the fly of a large tent covering them. Again there was a bit of bagpipe playing to close the evening.
RESCUE US
Back Story: We began our trip out of Port Medoc by helping a new acquaintance bail his sinking wooden boat after it was put into the water. It had been on land for bottom work for a couple of weeks and it was so hot and dry in France, that the planks of the hull dried out enough that when launched, and by the time he got the boat over to his slip it was taking on water so seriously that his pump could not keep up with it and it was sinking. His was the last boat launched before lunch so no help was to be found at the travel lift to get him back out of the water. His wife drove around to ask us to help which we did by RXC using a hand pump in the cockpit while the owner used a battery powered pump inside the boat to keep her afloat. The wife finally found someone who could contact the dock workers. For emergencies, the French will come back to work from lunch so the boat was re-hauled and left to be worked on another day.
Back to Rum: RXC and I are walking back to the harbor after dinner (earlier than most folks but probably about 10 PM) and we look out to see a boat lumbering on the shoreline among the rocks. She was behind Petillant and remember I said it is blowing stink and pouring rain which were perfect conditions for anchor failure. At the opening talk for the Malts Cruise, it was recommended that we leave keys in the ignition in case of an emergency. We took off for the wayward boat and I hopped on board and yes there are the keys and the engine starts! RXC ties up the dingy, gets on board and oh happy day the windless controls are there too. We get the anchor up which is covered with weed and a metal crab cage. We got the boat off the rocks and called to a group coming back to their boat to help us and get the owners who were still partying at the hall, which they did.
The village hall was quite a far distance from the harbor so we milled about for 45 minutes until the owners arrived. I have never been so wet in my life as the boat had no bimini. We got back to Petillant and needed to dry off and warm up. This boat had dragged completely across the loch but luckily damaged no boats along the way. Later that night we were making one final check outside and there was yet another boat back of us in nearly the same position the boat we rescued. We had our fill of rescuing boats and hoped that there were people on board who would figure out they were on the rocks.
Saturday, July 19. By morning the storm had passed although bad weather was predicted for the next few days. We had hoped to go on an eagle walk but that had to be cancelled because of poor visibility. So about 11 am, we pulled out our jib again and sailed to the Isle of Canna.
CANNA
Canna is owned by the National Trust of Scotland. Its climate is generally better than its neighbors as we can attest. We anchored in Canna Harbor where there was only one small fishing boat. We were basking in sunshine as we watched the gray clouds and rain envelope Rum only a few miles away. There were Highland Cattle grazing close to shore, lovely stone buildings surrounding the bay, and seals popping their heads up begging for treats.
Spray of Wight a classic gaff-rigged catch and the Malts Cruise “Head Boat” glided into the harbor, so now we were two. We walked a bit around the island which had a completely different feel from the others we had visited. More flat but utterly green bathed in the afternoon sunlight, one could imagine staying at anchor here for another week at least.
Spray of Wight organized and hosted the whisky nosing and tastings, so that evening we had our chance to taste and discuss whisky with the expert from Diageo. We brought goose and duck foie to share and discuss what whisky to pair with them. We learned quite a bit felt very lucky to have had such a personalized tasting.
Sunday, July 20. Predictions were for the weather to deteriorate and there was a gale warning for Mallin our destination area. Spray was going to Coll and we were thinking of going to Gometre or Ulva. Both could be achieved by sailing downwind in force 7 winds without distress. We headed out for Gometre at about 11 AM in light winds and sunshine. But true to forecast once we left Canna we had strong winds and the seas were kicking up. At one point we clocked winds at Force 8, make that gale Force 8. It rained, we were cold, visibility was not great, the cats were very unhappy, but the jib was fully out and we surfed down to Gometre sometimes at 11 knots. We got in the tiny harbor to find one boat there already but sensibly placed to permit another boat to anchor. We dropped the hook in Force 7 winds plus heavy rain and had one heck of a ride that night.
Monday, July 21. By morning all was calm, the sun was out, the seas were flat, and weather predictions were still for strong winds and gales. But not right now. We once again pulled out the jib and headed towards the south coast of Mull to Ardalanish a tiny inlet on the Ross of Mull. No “bigger than a bread box” we dropped anchor in a walled cove in sunshine and little wind. By evening the Highland cows came down to the edge of the cliffs to graze. The cove can safely hold only one boat and about 6 PM another boat tried to anchor less that a boat length away from us. We told them there was an identical cove around the corner where they could anchor but they said no. We warned them that they were too close but they persisted. Finally the winds swung us close enough that they did go to the next inlet over, perfectly lovely and about the same size and protection. We had sunshine but later force 7 winds kicked up so it was a good thing they left.
Tuesday, July 19. Our next destination was Loch Tarbet on Jura for another rendezvous and picnic. Once again we could pull out the jib and sail downwind for a great day of sailing. Malts Cruise boats were streaming into the Loch and we were able to sail all the way into the anchorage. We found a beautiful, large bay which reminded of us Shaw Bay. We anchored and got ready to go ashore for the 5 PM dram and canapés that were selected to go with the various malts on offer. At 6 PM a barbeque was catered by the gentleman we bought our fresh seafood from back in Oban.
Loch Tarbet is the most remote loch in the isles as there is no road there. So our chef sailed in with the mussels, venison steaks, and homemade shortbread dessert, not to mention the pots, pans, and charcoal. The food was delicious enhanced by the setting and camaraderie. Two pipers played that evening as well.
Wednesday, July 20. We did not read the program schedule thoroughly and we thought we could sail to Gigha for the evening and then to Port Ellen for the final day of activities which in our minds were 2 days away. We did not get up early after the party ashore and it was very foggy that morning so we did not even open the companion way doors to look outside. After tea and breakfast, when we did look out the 30 or 40 boats in the anchorage were gone. As it turned out we needed to get to Port Ellen today because we had signed up for a 9 AM tour of Islay the next day. Tides and current were such that the boats left early to catch the push to get them down the Sound of Islay. So in dense fog and no wind we left Loch Tarbet wishing we had one more day of sailing before the rally ended. We were still out enough to get a good push from the current, so we got through the Sound of Islay before it ran against us. The sun came out as we coasted along Islay toward Port Ellen passing one distillery after another: Caol Ila, Ardberg, Laphhroaig, Lagavulin….
When we got to Port Ellen all of pontoons and moorings were taken so we anchored quite far from the marina pier for the evening.
Thursday, July 21. Our wrap up. At 9 AM we were on the bus taking a half day tour of Islay. We went to an archaeological site where the first seat of government was established for the island. The “Lords of the Isles” ruled this area for centuries until James II broke their power and demolished their communities. There were the ruins of a church, great hall, and early stone carvings including a cross set in a remote and haunting location.
Next we went on to a great house with a magnificent garden where in order to maintain it they community has put into use for those who want to come and harvest your own fruit and vegetables as a modest cost. We bought lettuce, parsley, and a yellow courgette. Also in this village was the island’s only brewery. The beer is distinguished by the fact that they used the peated malt which the island is famous for. The beers were like nothing we had ever tasted. Of course, we bought a selection of the darker brews. Good thing we were on a bus and had a very long dingy ride back to the boat or there would have been more purchased.
Our last stop was in the town of Bowmore where we bought venison steak at t
he local butcher and stocked up on yogurt and plants of fresh herbs from the grocery shop. In the afternoon we toured the Lagavulin Distillery where we had to wait for an hour for our tour as we were waiting for some Belgian cyclists to join us. They plied us with many drams to ease our wait. We bought an amazing whisky available only at the distillery and feel here at the end of it all we have an impressive selection of island whiskies to get us through the year!
Our final gathering began with a dram and canapés on the shore again with pipers. Since boats had been following their own whims it was a time to catch up and swap stories of where they had been and their adventures. This was followed by a seafood buffet and a final ceilidh. Most boats were planning to leave early in the morning, many folks bemoaning the fact they had to be back to work on Monday.
Friday, July 22, 2011. Today is our final day in Scotland. I am hoping that I can find wifi ashore someplace and I can get this narrative posted. Photos on the Flickr account will take much more powerful internet connection than I suspect is here in Islay. We want to find haggis for lunch somewhere and walk around town. Tomorrow we head for Ireland as we begin to make our way back towards France. This should take 4-5 weeks. Thankfully, we do not have to be back to work on Monday!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Oban to Tobermory, Mull
The Malts Cruise festivities kicked off on Saturday night with a piper leading a parade of rally organizers and participants along the marina pier to shore where more than 100 sailors were waiting for the opening words of welcome, a toast, and a dram of Oban 14 year whisky. This was followed by a buffet dinner complete with a VERY good white Burgundy and a Chateau Neuf du Papes wine. After dinner there was a ceilidh band so folks could dance, but the evening music ended with Johnny Cash for the 12 Kentuckians who had chartered 2 boats and were participating in the rally.
Earlier in the day, we had several lectures about sailing the west Coast of Scotland, the Malts Cruise and it’s beginnings, suggested routes for this year, and possible anchorages. A wildlife conservationist/sailor presented a slide lecture on enjoying local wildlife that we may see and how to approach some of the more impressive creatures such as the basking shark should we sight one. There was also a briefing for all the participants on rally procedures, activities, and schedule.
Sunday morning boats prepared to sail up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory. We had spent 3 nights on a mooring to please the kitties so we headed into the marina to fill our water tanks before taking off. From now on will we rely solely on our water maker because we will be anchoring out for the rest of the rally. We have been running it since we left Port Medoc and it is working very well. We are using more fresh water these days because of our new head.
Our departure began with a parade of sail around Oban Bay, a very pretty sight. There was wind from the northwest to get us started up the Bay but it required a lot of tacking. Most boats started the day under sail but resorted to motoring the last hour or so. We took a mooring in Tobermory and went ashore for a fish and chip dinner and dram provided by the rally.
On Monday we signed up to take a half day bus tour around Mull. The sky was bright and sunny so we had a great tour of this beautiful island where there were sheep everywhere. The evening will begin with a lecture about the history of Mull and its people by a local historian. It will finish up with seafood buffet dinner. The last thing left for us to do here is our tour of the Tobermory Distillery which is scheduled for 11 AM Tuesday morning.
All of these activities have been organized by the World Cruising Association which has the Malts Cruise in its portfolio. Previously Diageo Distillers had sponsored the Classic Malts rally so tastings were only at their distilleries and activities did not extend to tours and wildlife activities (there is an upcoming eagle spotting excursion). Last year the rally did not take place while it was evaluated and reorganized. We are certainly glad we are able to participate in the Malts Cruise version. Some of the participants have been on 7or 8 of these.
Tuesday afternoon the boats go their own way. Anchorages and interesting destinations have been suggested. We all come back together again for shared activities Friday on the Isle of Rum. Every evening there is a whisky tasting with an expert. The host boat will be visiting these suggested anchorages so that you can participate in a tasting evening in the anchorage. The site is announced daily on the VHF.
It is highly unlikely that I will find a wifi access point after this posting for quite a few days. Access has been difficult in most places due to a combination of reasons. I will post what I can when I can. In the mean time, we will be enjoying the wind, the water, and the whisky.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Oban and Dressing Ship
Oban
We arrived in Oban just before 6 PM as it was only 25 miles from the sea gate at Crinan to the marina where the Malts rally had berthing reservations. Once again there was no wind and the seas were flatter than a pancake. A Pumpkin favorite. The marina was already closed for the day and jammed to the gills with boats. There were several moorings free so we took one. The moorings are great for the cats because we can leave them unsupervised and not worry that they (read that as Dante) will suck up to an owner with a bigger boat. Troon was definitely a problem as there was a lovely 48 footer next to us with cat lovers on board. They even tolerated his 8 AM visit. Dante is quite the ice breaker with many people. And he is also a complete suck up to the ladies as he brushes up against their legs and rolls on his back to show off his tummy for them, quite the performer.
The Malts Cruise registration began at 10 AM on Friday when we received our itinary, fleece jackets, hats, briefcase, etc. Registration accomplished we took off for Oban for the rest of the day. The marina runs a ferry service to the town docks as the marina itself is across the bay from the town.
Oban is a busy place where the rail and coach lines and island ferries converge so there is much to-ing and fro-ing. The town seems very prosperous. We had another wonderful seafood lunch and RXC bought himself a nice waterproof jacket that is lighter weight than foulies. We get numerous free tours of distilleries with the cruise and Oban was our first. A small production (1 million bottles annually) it was an interesting contrast to our tour of Glenfiddich (27 million bottles annually) last year. And the whisky was quite good.
The day was beautiful ly warm and sunny but a squall came through while we were learning about the Oban whisky. Then back to the boat for the evening as we needed to dress it for the festivities which begin tomorrow.
Dressing Petillant
By now we have accumulated many fine flags and decorations for the boat. We of course have to fly our stars and stripes at the stern as we are an American registered boat. We then fly a courtesy flag for the country where we are cruising at starboard, right now the red ensign of the UK and below that the blue and white cross of Scotland. On the port side at top is our “cats on board” flag, followed by the Port Medoc flag and today we added the Malts Cruise 2011 flag. While in ports, the rally organizers ask participants to dress ship meaning run signal flags from stem to stern. We had way more help to dress Petillant than we needed thanks to Mr. Dante.
With the ship dressed we were free to explore Oban again on Saturday morning before the rally briefings and welcome activities were to begin at 2:30 PM.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
Troon to Oban
Our departure from Troon was delayed by an hour because the bow thruster failed as we were pulling out of the slip. After deranging bicycles, 160 pounds of kitty litter, bedding, and cushions to dig deep into the bow of the boat, we discovered a fuse had blown. Not bad. A simple repair and we were off to the Crinan Canal. Needing to time the tides, lock opening schedule, and currents we wanted to get into the canal by mid afternoon so we could get through lock number 2 before 5 pm. Again it was a day of completely flat seas and no wind, so we had to motor the 40 miles to the canal entrance. We arrived at 3 pm and got through the sea lock and registered with Scottish Waterways and paid our usage fees.
As were we about to enter the next lock, the bow thruster failed again. We had to pull along the sea wall and trouble shoot once again. This time it turned out to be a breaker that would pop because of a low battery. So running the engine helped to get us through this canal where we tied up to a pontoon for the night at exactly 5:30 PM when the canal shuts down.
I was looking forward to this segment of the trip along the canal. Our trip last summer through the Caledonian Canal was fabulous. The Crinan Canal was a very different experience. It is 9 miles long, has 5 bridges, and 14 locks most of which are hand operated by the boat owners. The gates were extremely heavy and it took all available strength to open them. We had purchased a 6 ft long heavy board in Troon to protect our side against the sea walls. It is very difficult for just 2 people to handle the locks and the boat. We learned (eventually) that many boats hire someone to drive from lock to lock to open and close the gates for them. The canal was busy as it is a way to make passage and not a pleasure trip so boats were hurrying along and skippers and crew were not always pleasant.
However, the scenery was beautiful. The cats really enjoyed their time there. Dante jumped ship at the first bridge and stowed himself under it. After that he had to be locked in the cabin during lockings and bridge openings. But at the pontoons they did get off world to hunt wee beasties and eat grass. There was lots of rain, “the rain is persistent in Scotland” as the BBC weather reports like to say.
We had a great seafood meal with a tempura haggis starter yummy! in Cairnbaan at the hotel which is one of the designated www.theseafoodtrail.com restos. We met a very nice Dutch couple who were going through the canal at our pace and who we will see again in Oban. They too are out for 4 months and have sailed widely in northern Europe and gave us some great cruising suggestions. We spent 3 nights in the canal and left Crinan on the tide at 3 PM on Thursday to head for Oban and the Malts cruise. However, before leaving Crinan we replaced the old battery for the bow thruster. Hopefully we will have no more problems with that equipment.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Bangor to Troon
We set out from Bangor last Tuesday knowing there would be no wind. We motored the 64 miles in flat completely smooth seas which made the cats very happy. We pulled into the marina in Troon planning to spend 5 or 6 days here. Wednesday we took the train into Glasgow for a day of touring. The high point was lunch at the Willow Tea Room. On Thursday we took Bernadette's Mum out for lunch in Troon. Friday we rented a car to be able to go to Costco. There we bought 560 lbs. of cat litter for the crew. The litter from Costco is amazing and we have not found a litter in France which works very well, so importing it was in order. We are now carrying 14 plastic jugs of it. We also stocked up on a few other things we normally carry back from our visits to Costco in the US. Now we will not have to worry about visiting one in NY in September. Saturday was boat maintenance day as the windless is not working properly. RXC spent the better part of the afternoon trying to fix it but could not. Sunday saw the windless fixed but not permanently. It turns out it only has the fiberglass deck supporting it and will need a support structure under it. Winter project I guess.
The weather has been warn and sunny since we arrived in Scotland. We have eaten great seafood meals at a restaurant at the marina. Dante has charmed everyone on the surrounding boats. Tomorrow (Monday) we will leave early in the morning to be able to get into the Crinean Canal before it shuts down for the evening at 4 PM. It looks like it will be another day of motoring as no wind is accompanying the warn weather. By Wednesday we should be in Oban where we will meet up with the rest of the whisky tasters.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Carlingford, the Boyne and Newgrange to Bangor
After Dublin we made our way to yet another funky marina in Carlingford Lough. Carlingford is just on the border of North and the Republic of Ireland and largely a medieval village. It has been recently named one of the top 5 places in Ireland to live. It also has a nationally acclaimed butcher who purveys local beef and lamb. We arrived after a long day of sailing that started out motoring out of Dublin. It was about a 60 mile trip and per usual we arrived at the marina just as a blow and rain was about to hit. It seems that most mornings start out clear and calm but we have finished almost all of our sails wondering if we are going to get into a port and settled before the rain comes. That day we made it.
The next day we were went with an interpreter from the Boyne Battlefield for a grand tour of that moving site. Photo of JLM at a Boyne Wayside. Last year we visited Culloden and this battle is closely aligned historically. We toured first as Williamites and then as Jacobites. After lunch we went to the Stone Age site of Newgrange (photo 2), a site where the winter solstice is marked through a passage in stones. It was a long and wonderful day. Our guide convinced us that we should stay long enough to visit Carlingford village, so we stayed on another day. We bought a great T-bone steak for dinner, a lamb shank to stew with beans, an a package of gammon and streaky bacon from the famous butcher. None disappointed. We walked around the village, ate fish stew and Guinness in a pub and had a thoroughly enjoyable day on land. A boutique distillery is just outside Carlingford and we bought a very nice bottle of whiskey.
So once again at 5:45 AM we were out on Friday leaving Carlingford for Bangor, Northern Ireland. The plans to visit the Isle of Man were squelched because of weather. Another 50 plus mile sail that took about 12 hours. Little wind to start and good wind by afternoon. Do we detect a pattern?
So we have been enjoying a first rate marina in Bangor. On Saturday we took a train into Belfast, saw the sights and ate a delicious lunch in the oldest pub in Belfast (photo). Sunday we walked and shopped a bit. There is an ADSA in the center of town, that translates to Walmart. Today we did boat maintenance and cleaning and tomorrow at 7 AM we leave for Troon, Scotland.
Monday, June 20, 2011
Across the Irish Sea to Dublin
After 3 days in Penzance the weather cleared enough to move on. We set out at 4AM along with 2 other boats for Padstow, a quaint village that would take us around Land's End and on our way northward. We had to motor for the first half of the trip as there were no winds whatsoever. The swells around Land's End were not too bad, nothing like what we experienced in the Raz de Sein. Padstow turned out to indeed be very picturesque and the home of a famous chef, Rick Stein. He seems to have bought up the town as there were Rick Stein cafes, deli, home decorating shops, and a highly touted restaurant where we ate a excellent seafood meal. I have come to the conclusion that quaint seaside towns are to shop and eat in and little more.
The next day the weather forecast was good for us to cross the Bristol Channel so once again we were up at 4 AM and off by 4:30 for the 14 hour trip to Milford Haven. The trip was only 75.3 km but the tides and currents pushed and pulled at us so that we ended up taking 14 hours to make that distance. We pulled up to a pontoon set out by the Dale Sailing Club in a nice cove and spent the night.
We had been struggling with where to go once we got across the Bristol Channel. The coast of Wales had few ports that did not dry out and we were more interested in visiting Ireland than Wales. Finally we concluded we should head for Dublin. Dublin however, was too far to go in one shot unless we did an overnight. So the first port we could get to in Ireland would be Arklow which turned out to be 84.4 km and a 13 hour sail, the last 6 hours of which were quite exciting. A front was expected to keep us land locked for a couple of days but the next day (Thursday) we would be able to get to Arklow. So we were at the wheel again by 6 AM. While the early morning forecast made no mention of strong winds, at 11 AM a small craft advisory went out. We were in Force 7 winds by the end of the trip and well reefed with waves of 9 to 10 feet. Just as we were looking for the entrance to the Arklow port a rain storm came in decreasing our visibility to zilch. We puttered around until it cleared up enough to see the narrow entrance and finally arrived in Ireland.
That rain stayed with us for 2 days so we had time to clean up the boat, visit Arklow, and give the cats the attention they deserved. By Saturday we were ready to set out for Dublin which was only 42 km away.
Tides were favorable for a 6 AM departure. The 42 miles took 6 hours motoring as there was no wind. Dublin has one marina whose location is the absolute pits. It is in the cargo, ferry, and cruise ship port. We have rocked and rolled for 3 days now and are anxious to leave. Bow thrusters wake us up in the middle of the night and last night the boat was lit up like noon when a 3,200 passanger cruise ship can in at about 2 AM. The cats (us too) hate the rocking and all the noise. In addition the marina is a 1 1/2 miles out of town and not close to any type of transportation. I think few boats cruise to Dublin so there is no need to make a more hospitable place for them.
We did have a good time in Dublin. We took one of those sightseeing buses that gives you a good orientation to the city. Our first day we walked into town from the marina and it was grim because of all of the lovely but empty buildings a result of the economic crises here. But once in city center, it was full of tourists and the 10th annual Eurpean Street Performer Festival was in progress. The Chester Beatty Library was wonderful and we had a great high tea at the Shelborne Hotel.
Tomorrow (Tuesday) we are moving north. We are going to visit the Boyne battlefield before jumping over to the Isle of Man on Thursday if the weather holds.
Monday, June 13, 2011
News not Pirates from Penzance
I sit in the Sutton Marina in Plymouth, UK finally having the time to start to write up our trip log. It is June 9 and we have sailed from Port Medoc to Plymouth and brought the cats into the UK legally in just 6 days. A feat I still cannot believe we accomplished.
Shakedown Cruise La ROCHELLE to Ile de RE
When we finally got out after the boat was hauled to clean the bottom and change the zincs. With the morning tide occurring about 10 am, we took off for La Rochelle. Speed was once again up to par and we had a nice sail to this coastal stronghold whose entrance is bordered by towers that were built in the 14th century. We arrived an hour before the scheduled opening of the tidal gate or ecluse which keeps the inner harbor from drying out every 12 hours.
The old town center has 3 marinas two of which have gates to hold in the sea and therefore do not dry out. We puttered about until the 5 pm gate opening and entered the Bassin des Chalutiers which can handle yachts over 12 meters. This marina was not on the town’s main quay so a nicely quiet spot. We stayed for 3 nights and enjoyed the sights and market of La Rochelle. The weather was very warm and sunny and the town is filled with seafood restaurants and cafes. The 3 towers in town are museums and we toured all 3. There is a wonderful aquarium set right beside the marina. During the dinner hour of our second day we went in after most people had gone home to drinks and nibbles and their dinner. We spent 2 ½ hours looking at the fish and other sea life in a nearly empty aquarium. It was very impressive.
The covered market in town was nice and we enjoyed our morning chaussons des pommes and café in the sun outside of the very lively market.
After 3 nights in La Rochelle we left at the morning opening of the ecluse at 8:30 am for the town of Saint-Martin-de-Re on the north coast of the Ile de Re. We had to hurry along because we had to arrive before 11:30 am when that town’s ecluse would close to keep the inner harbor from drying out. We found a very crowded holiday town but luckily there was room for our boat along the wall in the heart of town. Ile de Re is famous for its salt beds. We off loaded the bikes and cycled around the island where we saw men working the salt ponds and cycling through a water fowl refuge. The weather remained hot and sunny. On our last evening on the island a sailing school Jeanneau rafted next to us and the good natured students we up with us at dawn to let us out of our slip to make the opening of the ecluse at 6 am. We sailed directly back to Port Medoc arriving about 9 pm that same day.
The shakedown cruise concluded and we had learned how to lock into these small towns with floating harbors, how to time tides and currents, that waiting buoys lay just outsides these harbors for those who missing the openings and the boat systems were all working. We went home to pick up the kitties for the adventure of their lives.
Images of La Rochelle and Ile de Re are at our Filckr site.
Port Medoc to Lezardrieux, Brittany
We took off from Port Medoc on Thursday, June 1 having waited a bit for good winds. Finally predicted NE winds were forecast and we set off about 9:30 am. Our hopes were to sail from Port t Medoc to Brest in one shot. While the weather predictions said winds would be from the northeast, they never got that way. We had good winds from the north. Basically we sailed close hauled and had to tack so we end up going very far off shore and not making much distance over ground. Finally we gave in and motor sailed for quite some time until the winds finally came round to the NE. By the evening of the 2nd day we were still one more overnight sail from Brest. We were tired and we had to face the Raz de Sein, a “white water rafting” type of experience to coincide with tides and current and thought it best to face the Raz in daylight. So we decided to drop anchor among the Iles de Glenan, a small archipelago with white beaches and crystal clear water. We had sailed about 200 nm. Mid day of our second day out we were entertained by dolphins gliding through the water and surfacing alongside the boat. I had certainly witnessed this behavior before, but never with so many dolphins and many of them were babies. We think we were surrounded by 40 or more.
We were starting the trip over Ascension holiday weekend, 4 days for the French to vacation, so the anchorage at Iles de Glenan was packed. It reminded me of Swan Creek on Memorial Day weekend. We enjoyed a lovely sunset and early to bed. We had to be up and out at dawn if we were to make the Raz de Sein with the tides and current with us.
The Raz de Sein is a short cut between the Ile de Sein and the mainland head called the Pointe du Raz. It is known for swells and contrary winds. It was indeed a remarkable trip. We took it at slack water as recommended but even so it was a very rough tumble ride and the kitties were NOT amused. The bow slammed into large swells and we took water into the v-berth through the foredeck hatch. By this time we decided to bypass Brest and continue making passage to our destination: friends in Lezardrieux. We went directly up the Chanel du Four and anchored overnight in a tiny but crowded cove called the Anse de Porsmoguer. This was Saturday evening and we were the only occupied boat as all the other boats were permanently there on moorings. The anchorage was extremely rolly. We arrived close to dark at 9:45 having gone about 70 nm, ate, and then off to bed to be ready for an 8 am start the next day.
We were now very used to going north against the prevailing winds and watching a significant number of boats registered in the UK and Holland heading towards the sun. More than once we wondered if we were crazy to be heading to Scotland.
Our fourth day out found us fighting the currents the entire day. Progress was slow and seas were unpleasant. We were in Roscoff by 6 pm and still the currents were against us. We tried to look for somewhere to spend the night but the marina dries out and the mooring buoys would not support a boat our size. We were uncomfortable anchoring just inside the channel. We carried on to a marina in Trebuergen which had a locking gate. At 6:30 the currents began to give us a boost (finally) so we got to the marina with an hour to spare. However, the marina was hosting a Dutch rally to the Azores and was packed. There was literally 1 slip available which we tied up to, ate dinner, went to bed to be up at the 6 AM gate opening.
Mercifully we were only 40 miles from Lezardrieux at that point and were looking forward to a visit with friends. We had had perfect weather to transit the several hundred miles from Port Medoc to destination number one. We arrived in Lezardrieux at lunch time and took a slip in the marina. We fueled up and set off for lunch at the home of G&J. Later that evening we enjoyed a wonderful seafood meal at their favorite local restaurant as we watched the sunset on the craggy shores.
We never imagined we would leave Port Medoc on a Thursday and arrive in Lezardrieux on Monday, less than 5 days. G&J were planning on helping us get the cats into the UK legally via the ferry from Roscoff to Plymouth. We thought we would have a few days to visit, rest, wash the salt off the boat, take the cats to the vet to be de-fleed and de- wormed and wait for a weather window to cross the Channel. Not to be. Our weather window was open Tuesday, the next day. So on a Monday afternoon when most of France is closed, we were looking for a vet to see the cats and found one who gave them their treatments at 6 PM. During the afternoon we had to make reservations for the ferry to Plymouth, do some minor provisioning, and get JLM and the cats packed and ready to move ashore to G&J’s home for 2 nights while G moved aboard Petillant to help RXC cross the Channel. This whole event was like a precisely planned military operation. Petillant had to leave Lezardrieux on the morning currents at 6 AM, the crossing was likely to take 20 hours. The cats had to wait 24 hours after their vet treatments before they could arrive in the UK. A ferry left Roscoff at 8:30 AM on Wednesday arriving in Plymouth at 1:30PM BST. It departed for Roscoff again at 2:30 PM. That gave RXC time to get the boat to Plymouth, JLM and the cats time to take the ferry, and JLM exchanged for G for the ferry ride back to Roscoff.
While stressful, it all went off without a hitch. However, the indignity of all of this was when the cats arrived legally in the UK, there were no animal health care workers to clear the cats into the country. So in what was an immensely expensive operation Calypso and Dante are here with no proof whatsoever they arrived according the regulations. I will undoubtedly submit a diatribe about Britland in a subsequent posting.
THE UK
RXC and G arrived in Plymouth at 1 AM BST on Wednesday June 8, 2011. We had decided to go into the Sutton Marina as it was close by to the ferry terminal. Tides were such that the marina gate was manned and could be opened at that hour so they settled into the marina and crashed. The marina is in a district reminiscent of the Inner Harbor of Baltimore. Lots of tarted up restos and shops. It had a fab laundry and was well placed for shopping. We were all (4) exhausted and ready to take it easy for a few of days. Oh! but tides and time wait for no man especially if you are trying to round Land’s End.
Plymouth to Penzance
A blow was coming. A storm was predicted to sit over SW England for several days at the weekend. While we would like to have stayed in Plymouth another day we felt that we needed to begin to make our way around the Lizard and Land’s End to take advantage of the southerly winds that would blow us up towards Wales that were predicted to follow the storm. We sailed out of Plymouth and headed for Helmsford Creek, a lovely cove with forested slopes in the heart of Daphne de Maurier country. We only spent one evening but it was tranquil and we did not have to worry about drying out. The next morning we were off to Penzance where we intended to sit out the storm.
The morning was lovely with great winds and lots of sun. We rounded the Lizard about 3 miles off shore to keep the swells in check. We arrived in Penzance at the moment the port gate opened and rafted up to 5 boats. We felt lucky to be inside the port as lots of boats were coming in for refuge against the storm and the harbormaster was running out of room because a Royal Navy mine sweeper, the Penzance, was visiting and open for tours and a large cargo vessel berthed inside the port on weekends.
The storm was nasty and even in a very small walled port the boat rocked and rolled from the wind in our stays. We are in day 2 and I do not think we will be leaving tomorrow.
In town we have enjoyed very good coffees, a lemon drizzle cake, excellent beer battered locally caught fish. We toured the mine sweeper and have had time to finally write this trip log. We have needed to heat the boat in the morning and evening today but are very comfortable.
I am about to post this trip log on Monday morning June 13, 2011. We are in port for one more day as the seas are rough. The gate will open at 3 PM this afternoon and the cargo and war ships will depart. We will leave at 4 AM tomorrow on the first opening of the gate for Tuesday. Good winds and calmer seas are forecast for the trip around Land’s End.
The cats are great. Calypso has acquired sea legs at last and does really well in the boat. I so feared a sick Pumpkin for months on end but the drooling stopped about 4 days out. Yahoo!
Shakedown Cruise La ROCHELLE to Ile de RE
When we finally got out after the boat was hauled to clean the bottom and change the zincs. With the morning tide occurring about 10 am, we took off for La Rochelle. Speed was once again up to par and we had a nice sail to this coastal stronghold whose entrance is bordered by towers that were built in the 14th century. We arrived an hour before the scheduled opening of the tidal gate or ecluse which keeps the inner harbor from drying out every 12 hours.
The old town center has 3 marinas two of which have gates to hold in the sea and therefore do not dry out. We puttered about until the 5 pm gate opening and entered the Bassin des Chalutiers which can handle yachts over 12 meters. This marina was not on the town’s main quay so a nicely quiet spot. We stayed for 3 nights and enjoyed the sights and market of La Rochelle. The weather was very warm and sunny and the town is filled with seafood restaurants and cafes. The 3 towers in town are museums and we toured all 3. There is a wonderful aquarium set right beside the marina. During the dinner hour of our second day we went in after most people had gone home to drinks and nibbles and their dinner. We spent 2 ½ hours looking at the fish and other sea life in a nearly empty aquarium. It was very impressive.
The covered market in town was nice and we enjoyed our morning chaussons des pommes and café in the sun outside of the very lively market.
After 3 nights in La Rochelle we left at the morning opening of the ecluse at 8:30 am for the town of Saint-Martin-de-Re on the north coast of the Ile de Re. We had to hurry along because we had to arrive before 11:30 am when that town’s ecluse would close to keep the inner harbor from drying out. We found a very crowded holiday town but luckily there was room for our boat along the wall in the heart of town. Ile de Re is famous for its salt beds. We off loaded the bikes and cycled around the island where we saw men working the salt ponds and cycling through a water fowl refuge. The weather remained hot and sunny. On our last evening on the island a sailing school Jeanneau rafted next to us and the good natured students we up with us at dawn to let us out of our slip to make the opening of the ecluse at 6 am. We sailed directly back to Port Medoc arriving about 9 pm that same day.
The shakedown cruise concluded and we had learned how to lock into these small towns with floating harbors, how to time tides and currents, that waiting buoys lay just outsides these harbors for those who missing the openings and the boat systems were all working. We went home to pick up the kitties for the adventure of their lives.
Images of La Rochelle and Ile de Re are at our Filckr site.
Port Medoc to Lezardrieux, Brittany
We took off from Port Medoc on Thursday, June 1 having waited a bit for good winds. Finally predicted NE winds were forecast and we set off about 9:30 am. Our hopes were to sail from Port t Medoc to Brest in one shot. While the weather predictions said winds would be from the northeast, they never got that way. We had good winds from the north. Basically we sailed close hauled and had to tack so we end up going very far off shore and not making much distance over ground. Finally we gave in and motor sailed for quite some time until the winds finally came round to the NE. By the evening of the 2nd day we were still one more overnight sail from Brest. We were tired and we had to face the Raz de Sein, a “white water rafting” type of experience to coincide with tides and current and thought it best to face the Raz in daylight. So we decided to drop anchor among the Iles de Glenan, a small archipelago with white beaches and crystal clear water. We had sailed about 200 nm. Mid day of our second day out we were entertained by dolphins gliding through the water and surfacing alongside the boat. I had certainly witnessed this behavior before, but never with so many dolphins and many of them were babies. We think we were surrounded by 40 or more.
We were starting the trip over Ascension holiday weekend, 4 days for the French to vacation, so the anchorage at Iles de Glenan was packed. It reminded me of Swan Creek on Memorial Day weekend. We enjoyed a lovely sunset and early to bed. We had to be up and out at dawn if we were to make the Raz de Sein with the tides and current with us.
The Raz de Sein is a short cut between the Ile de Sein and the mainland head called the Pointe du Raz. It is known for swells and contrary winds. It was indeed a remarkable trip. We took it at slack water as recommended but even so it was a very rough tumble ride and the kitties were NOT amused. The bow slammed into large swells and we took water into the v-berth through the foredeck hatch. By this time we decided to bypass Brest and continue making passage to our destination: friends in Lezardrieux. We went directly up the Chanel du Four and anchored overnight in a tiny but crowded cove called the Anse de Porsmoguer. This was Saturday evening and we were the only occupied boat as all the other boats were permanently there on moorings. The anchorage was extremely rolly. We arrived close to dark at 9:45 having gone about 70 nm, ate, and then off to bed to be ready for an 8 am start the next day.
We were now very used to going north against the prevailing winds and watching a significant number of boats registered in the UK and Holland heading towards the sun. More than once we wondered if we were crazy to be heading to Scotland.
Our fourth day out found us fighting the currents the entire day. Progress was slow and seas were unpleasant. We were in Roscoff by 6 pm and still the currents were against us. We tried to look for somewhere to spend the night but the marina dries out and the mooring buoys would not support a boat our size. We were uncomfortable anchoring just inside the channel. We carried on to a marina in Trebuergen which had a locking gate. At 6:30 the currents began to give us a boost (finally) so we got to the marina with an hour to spare. However, the marina was hosting a Dutch rally to the Azores and was packed. There was literally 1 slip available which we tied up to, ate dinner, went to bed to be up at the 6 AM gate opening.
Mercifully we were only 40 miles from Lezardrieux at that point and were looking forward to a visit with friends. We had had perfect weather to transit the several hundred miles from Port Medoc to destination number one. We arrived in Lezardrieux at lunch time and took a slip in the marina. We fueled up and set off for lunch at the home of G&J. Later that evening we enjoyed a wonderful seafood meal at their favorite local restaurant as we watched the sunset on the craggy shores.
We never imagined we would leave Port Medoc on a Thursday and arrive in Lezardrieux on Monday, less than 5 days. G&J were planning on helping us get the cats into the UK legally via the ferry from Roscoff to Plymouth. We thought we would have a few days to visit, rest, wash the salt off the boat, take the cats to the vet to be de-fleed and de- wormed and wait for a weather window to cross the Channel. Not to be. Our weather window was open Tuesday, the next day. So on a Monday afternoon when most of France is closed, we were looking for a vet to see the cats and found one who gave them their treatments at 6 PM. During the afternoon we had to make reservations for the ferry to Plymouth, do some minor provisioning, and get JLM and the cats packed and ready to move ashore to G&J’s home for 2 nights while G moved aboard Petillant to help RXC cross the Channel. This whole event was like a precisely planned military operation. Petillant had to leave Lezardrieux on the morning currents at 6 AM, the crossing was likely to take 20 hours. The cats had to wait 24 hours after their vet treatments before they could arrive in the UK. A ferry left Roscoff at 8:30 AM on Wednesday arriving in Plymouth at 1:30PM BST. It departed for Roscoff again at 2:30 PM. That gave RXC time to get the boat to Plymouth, JLM and the cats time to take the ferry, and JLM exchanged for G for the ferry ride back to Roscoff.
While stressful, it all went off without a hitch. However, the indignity of all of this was when the cats arrived legally in the UK, there were no animal health care workers to clear the cats into the country. So in what was an immensely expensive operation Calypso and Dante are here with no proof whatsoever they arrived according the regulations. I will undoubtedly submit a diatribe about Britland in a subsequent posting.
THE UK
RXC and G arrived in Plymouth at 1 AM BST on Wednesday June 8, 2011. We had decided to go into the Sutton Marina as it was close by to the ferry terminal. Tides were such that the marina gate was manned and could be opened at that hour so they settled into the marina and crashed. The marina is in a district reminiscent of the Inner Harbor of Baltimore. Lots of tarted up restos and shops. It had a fab laundry and was well placed for shopping. We were all (4) exhausted and ready to take it easy for a few of days. Oh! but tides and time wait for no man especially if you are trying to round Land’s End.
Plymouth to Penzance
A blow was coming. A storm was predicted to sit over SW England for several days at the weekend. While we would like to have stayed in Plymouth another day we felt that we needed to begin to make our way around the Lizard and Land’s End to take advantage of the southerly winds that would blow us up towards Wales that were predicted to follow the storm. We sailed out of Plymouth and headed for Helmsford Creek, a lovely cove with forested slopes in the heart of Daphne de Maurier country. We only spent one evening but it was tranquil and we did not have to worry about drying out. The next morning we were off to Penzance where we intended to sit out the storm.
The morning was lovely with great winds and lots of sun. We rounded the Lizard about 3 miles off shore to keep the swells in check. We arrived in Penzance at the moment the port gate opened and rafted up to 5 boats. We felt lucky to be inside the port as lots of boats were coming in for refuge against the storm and the harbormaster was running out of room because a Royal Navy mine sweeper, the Penzance, was visiting and open for tours and a large cargo vessel berthed inside the port on weekends.
The storm was nasty and even in a very small walled port the boat rocked and rolled from the wind in our stays. We are in day 2 and I do not think we will be leaving tomorrow.
In town we have enjoyed very good coffees, a lemon drizzle cake, excellent beer battered locally caught fish. We toured the mine sweeper and have had time to finally write this trip log. We have needed to heat the boat in the morning and evening today but are very comfortable.
I am about to post this trip log on Monday morning June 13, 2011. We are in port for one more day as the seas are rough. The gate will open at 3 PM this afternoon and the cargo and war ships will depart. We will leave at 4 AM tomorrow on the first opening of the gate for Tuesday. Good winds and calmer seas are forecast for the trip around Land’s End.
The cats are great. Calypso has acquired sea legs at last and does really well in the boat. I so feared a sick Pumpkin for months on end but the drooling stopped about 4 days out. Yahoo!
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
The Shakedown Cruise
Surprisingly about 7:30 PM on the Sunday after I posted my last entry saying that the canvas for the boat would not arrive on a holiday, the nice canvas lady and her husband showed up with all the canvas repairs finished and offering to help us set up the dogger and bimini. We thanked them for their dedication but said we would install it ourselves the next day which we did. That meant Tuesday (May 10) we could be off to Ile de Re. The weather was perfect and we left with the tide. We had 10 1/2 hours to sail 40 nm in order to get to the island's protective ecluse by it's opening at 8:30 PM and get into the harbor.
Steering was sluggish which was to be expected on a first time out. We had not hauled the boat this spring to clean off the bottom because we hauled it last year and there was nothing growing on it so we thought we could get away with a season without a haulout. WRONG.
Our usual 8-9 knot speed was trailing at 4 knots. We were not making much progress. At 5 PM we decided we had another 5 hours to go and were not going to make the ecluse opening. We would be looking for an anchorage in the dark which was not how we wanted to spend our first cruise of the season. So we turned back and got back to the marina before dark. The next day we arranged for a haul out.
The travel lift is very busy at this time of the year and we had to wait a week for a slot. We went back to the kitties until yesterday when we drove back to the marina. We were hauled this morning and there were all types of mussels, clams, oysters, etc. growing on the prop and rudder. The bottom was power washed and we are back in the slip ready to head off to Ile de Re tomorrow.
Hopefully we will have better luck this time. The weather is supposed to be great for the next 3 days.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
Rounding the Mark
The Sunday regatta was just inside the Garonne today but there was little wind. We cycled to Souliac for breakfast. We remain at the marina awaiting our canvas which is being checked over and repaired in a couple of places. The canvas lady is running behind, she was supposed to deliver it yesterday and we planned to take off for Ile de Re today. But she was a no show and with it being Sunday and a holiday (victory over the Germans) today we do not expect her this afternoon either. Maybe she will turn up tomorrow. It isn't as if there is not plenty of work to do on the boat and places to cycle around here, so no hardship staying put. The new chart plotter is very nice and the new head much quieter.
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Leaving the Vines for the Sea
Tomorrow we head for Petillant. We are planning on a short shake down cruise to Ile de Re. We have work to do on her before we leave such as install a new chart plotter and a quiet fresh water head. Canvas is being mended so we will have to install that. Work should be done by Sunday so that we can take off. We have to make one more trip home in order to pick up the cats before we begin our cruise up the Atlantic coast of France and on to England, Scotland, and Ireland, about 4 months in all. Stay tuned for updates on our adventures.
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