Sunday & Monday, August 14 &15. We arrived in Kinsale yesterday afternoon after a wonderful sail. The town is very picturesque and it was packed with French and American tourists. This is the gourmet capital of Ireland so we had dinner at a restaurant called Max's. It was wonderful food and a nice menu to choose from.
Looks like tomorrow we will have good weather for the next few days to get us back to France, so we are planning on taking advantage of it. We will leave for the Isles of Scilly around 9 AM. It should be a 24 hour sail. Thursday wind is supposed to turn north which will give us a good sail over to France. We would like to make it as far as the Isles de Glennan where we stopped on our way up.
So we will wait until the morning forecast to make a final decision about leaving but right now it is looking that way. We have filled the tank with fuel and the necessary food is aboard.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Friday, August 12, 2011
Aran to Valencia
Aran Isles, Doolin, Kilrush, Valencia
Tuesday, August 2. After leaving Roundstone, we headed for Inishmore, the largest of the 3 islands knows as the Aran Isles. Not a bad sail although seas were not Calypso friendly, with winds from the northwest. We took a visitor mooring in the new and still under construction ferry port in Kilronan. We arrived mid-afternoon and took the dingy into town. Our plans were to meet up with our Irish friends again who would take a ferry from their home in Doolin the next day. We would spend a day on Aran and then sail down to Kilrush on Thursday.
Inishmore is a beautiful island and a MAJOR tourist destination. Ferries come from several towns hauling hundreds of holiday-makers to the island every day. They are met by jaunting cars (pony and trap) or mini busses to take them on tours around the island. Like clockwork, our friends arrived on the morning ferry from Doolin and we spent the day touring the island. We took a mini bus around for half a tour and let the driver go at the Iron Age fort Dun Aonghasa. This is a stone fort built on a rock promontory. The scenery is spectacular and is definitely worth the journey. We walked back to Kilronan and finished the day with a delicious meal on board. We had Burren smoked salmon and mackerel from a prize-winning small producer near Doolin who is currently in the US meeting with Dean and DeLucca about carrying her smoked fish.
Thursday, August 4. Kilronan to Kilrush. The sail from the Aran isles passes the Cliffs of Moher which is considered some of the most dramatic coastline in Ireland. We planned this trip for Thursday because the weather was forecast to be relatively good. One thing we have learned about weather in Ireland is: it is not predictable. We sailed out near 8 AM in not terrible conditions but by the time we had passed Inishmann conditions we deteriorating. Visibility was decreasing and seas were kicking up. We ended up experiencing the roughest seas of our whole trip and the visibility was not such that we could really appreciate the coastline. Once we rounded Loop Head and entered the Shannon River sea state calmed somewhat and our last 2 hours were passed pleasantly. We off loaded the cats and went to spend a couple of days with our friends in their home.
Friday, August 5. The Doolin Respite. Doolin is renowned as a center for traditional music. It is also in a very particular geological region called the Burren where there is a vast limestone plateau. We spent 3 days seeing the local sights while eating scones along the way and dining on fish and chips in the pub which draws crowds for nightly music, and some excellent home cooking. Dante and Calypso thought they had died and gone to heaven. They spent 3 days in a house with lots of windows from which to watch interesting things. They were also able to go outside themselves to explore and eat grass. They were really hoping to be adopted by the nice Irish couple and never have to go back on the boat again. But no. Sunday morning came and they were in their carriers again in a car driving back to Kilrush Marina and the dreaded boat.
Sunday, August 7. We are in a marina for the first time since Troon. The only thing we want to do is laundry. So that is how we spent the afternoon through evening. This marina has a home not commercial washing machine and dryer so it took many, many hours to do most of what we needed wash. Some things will wait until we get back home. On Monday, we walked around Kilrush, did a final shop of fresh fruit and veg, filled water tanks, and washed the boat. There is a lock to get in and out of the marina which operates from 9 AM to 9 PM. We planned to be out on the tide at 6 AM on Tuesday so at 9 PM we locked out of Kilrush Creek to spend the night in the sea lock.
Tuesday, August 9. Kilrush to Valencia. We left Kilrush as planned at 6 AM and had a lovely sail down the Shannon River. Once we got out to the coast however, the winds soon died then changed direction so that we were heading into them, and then they freshened. Seas were once again rough until we passed behind the Blasket Islands. Our original destination was the Blaskets but with the weather deteriorating and Irish coast guard predicting gales for the next day, we decided to make for Valencia which is well protected. We found that a marina was here, still under construction but completed enough for us to tie up to its floating pier.
Valencia is a lovely small island with a new port built to accommodate water sports for children. Kids were kayaking, swimming, and jumping on a floating trampoline inside the protection of 3 sea walls and the floating pier. A ferry ride of no more than 5 minutes connects Valencia to the mainland. We enjoyed a walk around the town and sat down for a relaxing Guinness. Weather continued to deteriorate and we planned for another day here.
Wednesday, August 10. It is mid afternoon as I catch up on my trip log. We have been battered by winds and rain for hours now. This is the first storm we have had to sit out since Penzance, not bad for 2 months on the go. It has given us time to plan our trip back to France. We lost the red running light on the way down to Kilrush so we have to replace that before doing much else. There are few marinas and even fewer chandlers here so we do not know where we will find the replacement. Tomorrow we are heading to Baltimore (NOT). RXC likes to say we started this trip out from Balmor, MD so it is fitting we should stop at the one over here. Hopefully, there will be a chandler there that will have something we can use for the trip back.
If the storm lessens a bit, we will go have a coffee at an internet café and I will be able to get this posted. Our internet connectivity has been the main frustration of the trip. Not only has it been infrequent but increasingly we try to connect to a hot spot only to find our US computers cannot read the signal. We have set up accounts that are supposed to give us good coverage such as Boingo but they have not worked. When we can catch something at cafes, we have to try to remember to check so many things beside email such as bills, bank and credit cards statements, weather, etc. This is the one thing that has been fairly problematic for the trip as we depend on the web for so many things.
Friday, August 12. We are still in Valencia. The weather has kept us pier bound. Tomorrow predictions are for lighter winds, we will see. If we get out we will try to get as far as Kilmore. from there we will jump to the Scillies when we get a weather window. Weather is supposed to be poor through the middle of next week at least. From the Scillies we will head to La Coquette north or Brest or the Isles of Glennan.
Tuesday, August 2. After leaving Roundstone, we headed for Inishmore, the largest of the 3 islands knows as the Aran Isles. Not a bad sail although seas were not Calypso friendly, with winds from the northwest. We took a visitor mooring in the new and still under construction ferry port in Kilronan. We arrived mid-afternoon and took the dingy into town. Our plans were to meet up with our Irish friends again who would take a ferry from their home in Doolin the next day. We would spend a day on Aran and then sail down to Kilrush on Thursday.
Inishmore is a beautiful island and a MAJOR tourist destination. Ferries come from several towns hauling hundreds of holiday-makers to the island every day. They are met by jaunting cars (pony and trap) or mini busses to take them on tours around the island. Like clockwork, our friends arrived on the morning ferry from Doolin and we spent the day touring the island. We took a mini bus around for half a tour and let the driver go at the Iron Age fort Dun Aonghasa. This is a stone fort built on a rock promontory. The scenery is spectacular and is definitely worth the journey. We walked back to Kilronan and finished the day with a delicious meal on board. We had Burren smoked salmon and mackerel from a prize-winning small producer near Doolin who is currently in the US meeting with Dean and DeLucca about carrying her smoked fish.
Thursday, August 4. Kilronan to Kilrush. The sail from the Aran isles passes the Cliffs of Moher which is considered some of the most dramatic coastline in Ireland. We planned this trip for Thursday because the weather was forecast to be relatively good. One thing we have learned about weather in Ireland is: it is not predictable. We sailed out near 8 AM in not terrible conditions but by the time we had passed Inishmann conditions we deteriorating. Visibility was decreasing and seas were kicking up. We ended up experiencing the roughest seas of our whole trip and the visibility was not such that we could really appreciate the coastline. Once we rounded Loop Head and entered the Shannon River sea state calmed somewhat and our last 2 hours were passed pleasantly. We off loaded the cats and went to spend a couple of days with our friends in their home.
Friday, August 5. The Doolin Respite. Doolin is renowned as a center for traditional music. It is also in a very particular geological region called the Burren where there is a vast limestone plateau. We spent 3 days seeing the local sights while eating scones along the way and dining on fish and chips in the pub which draws crowds for nightly music, and some excellent home cooking. Dante and Calypso thought they had died and gone to heaven. They spent 3 days in a house with lots of windows from which to watch interesting things. They were also able to go outside themselves to explore and eat grass. They were really hoping to be adopted by the nice Irish couple and never have to go back on the boat again. But no. Sunday morning came and they were in their carriers again in a car driving back to Kilrush Marina and the dreaded boat.
Sunday, August 7. We are in a marina for the first time since Troon. The only thing we want to do is laundry. So that is how we spent the afternoon through evening. This marina has a home not commercial washing machine and dryer so it took many, many hours to do most of what we needed wash. Some things will wait until we get back home. On Monday, we walked around Kilrush, did a final shop of fresh fruit and veg, filled water tanks, and washed the boat. There is a lock to get in and out of the marina which operates from 9 AM to 9 PM. We planned to be out on the tide at 6 AM on Tuesday so at 9 PM we locked out of Kilrush Creek to spend the night in the sea lock.
Tuesday, August 9. Kilrush to Valencia. We left Kilrush as planned at 6 AM and had a lovely sail down the Shannon River. Once we got out to the coast however, the winds soon died then changed direction so that we were heading into them, and then they freshened. Seas were once again rough until we passed behind the Blasket Islands. Our original destination was the Blaskets but with the weather deteriorating and Irish coast guard predicting gales for the next day, we decided to make for Valencia which is well protected. We found that a marina was here, still under construction but completed enough for us to tie up to its floating pier.
Valencia is a lovely small island with a new port built to accommodate water sports for children. Kids were kayaking, swimming, and jumping on a floating trampoline inside the protection of 3 sea walls and the floating pier. A ferry ride of no more than 5 minutes connects Valencia to the mainland. We enjoyed a walk around the town and sat down for a relaxing Guinness. Weather continued to deteriorate and we planned for another day here.
Wednesday, August 10. It is mid afternoon as I catch up on my trip log. We have been battered by winds and rain for hours now. This is the first storm we have had to sit out since Penzance, not bad for 2 months on the go. It has given us time to plan our trip back to France. We lost the red running light on the way down to Kilrush so we have to replace that before doing much else. There are few marinas and even fewer chandlers here so we do not know where we will find the replacement. Tomorrow we are heading to Baltimore (NOT). RXC likes to say we started this trip out from Balmor, MD so it is fitting we should stop at the one over here. Hopefully, there will be a chandler there that will have something we can use for the trip back.
If the storm lessens a bit, we will go have a coffee at an internet café and I will be able to get this posted. Our internet connectivity has been the main frustration of the trip. Not only has it been infrequent but increasingly we try to connect to a hot spot only to find our US computers cannot read the signal. We have set up accounts that are supposed to give us good coverage such as Boingo but they have not worked. When we can catch something at cafes, we have to try to remember to check so many things beside email such as bills, bank and credit cards statements, weather, etc. This is the one thing that has been fairly problematic for the trip as we depend on the web for so many things.
Friday, August 12. We are still in Valencia. The weather has kept us pier bound. Tomorrow predictions are for lighter winds, we will see. If we get out we will try to get as far as Kilmore. from there we will jump to the Scillies when we get a weather window. Weather is supposed to be poor through the middle of next week at least. From the Scillies we will head to La Coquette north or Brest or the Isles of Glennan.
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
A Day in Galway
Monday, August 1: Galway. We took the bus into Galway on Bank Holiday Monday. The inland scenery was just beautiful. We saw the sights in town which was winding down from a festival weekend. We were to meet up with friends for lunch who were also coming into town by bus. Amazingly, all transportation details worked out. We found each other, had a great visit, and a very fine lunch. Our respective buses left Galway at 6 PM and 6:15 PM. Back in Roundstone at 7:45 PM we were astonished by the crowds of people standing in the road, we thought it was a parade! No just folks having drinks outdoors in the evening sunshine. This is the major vacation time in Ireland and obviously people were taking advantage. Roundstone is also a place where the more affluent Dubliners come to holiday, but we also heard quite a few folks speaking with English accents too. Tomorrow we are off to the Aran Islands.
Sunday, July 31, 2011
The West Coast
Killybegs
Tuesday, July 26. Touring by Bus. The mooring we took belonged to a sailboat which was scheduled to return today. We picked it up because it was yellow which in EU land is supposed to mean it is a visitor’s buoy. But here visitors are to tie up on the town pier where there are both small and huge fishing vessels. We wanted to do some touring today so we got up early to be able to move the boat. We tried to find a place to anchor given the alternative but no anchorage was to be found. The harbor is full of fish farms. Reluctantly, we tied up to a 45 foot fishing boat which was outboard of a 60 foot one. We hung around until we could contact the harbormaster who said the boats were not scheduled to go out for awhile so we were good to stay.
Numerous folks here talked about how depressed the fishing industry is here. The EU imposed quotas so boats only go out about 4 months a year. The rest of the time they are virtually mothballed. The town is quite small and dependant on the fishermen.
We took a bus to the lively weaving village of Ardara. Only 1 bus a day goes there leaving Killybegs at 10:45 AM. Only 1 bus comes back to Killybegs at noon. Not much time to spend in town. From Ardara we could get a bus to Donegal also at noon. But from Donegal we could get a bus back to Killybegs in the late afternoon. So we boarded the bus for our day out.
Ardara was lovely, had better services than Killybegs, had lots of tourists visiting the weavers, and generally was a very pleasant village. We made good use of our hour there and then off to Donegal at noon.
It is nice to get off the boat and see the inland countryside. The decent into Donegal with a view of the bay was glorious. We would have sailed there but the harbor dries out which is why we extended our stay in Killybegs and decided on taking the bus.
Donegal was very busy with tourists. We found a small gourmet food shop there that sold amazing Irish cheeses and a very unusual bacon. They also stocked wine from a winery we like near Le Fleix. We were able to stock up on fruit and veg. We were back in Killybegs by 6 PM.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011: A Day for the Boat. After a month on the go, there was a lot of boat maintenance and cleaning to do. We started the morning off by sending RXC up to the top of the mast, my favorite activity. Various repairs were accomplished, line for the topping lift was replaced, but to repair an antenna would require a second trip up to the top. Unfortunately, it began to rain so that second trip is put off until another day.
While up the mast RXC noticed what he thought was a problem with the engine’s turbo charger. So his next project was to search for a Yanmar mechanic. A trip back to the shop where the line was purchased was fruitful. He was hooked up with a mechanic who came by to look at the engine within the hour. As it turned out, there was no problem so we can be on our way tomorrow.
Thursday, July 28, 2011: Killybegs to Broadhaven: Crummy weather, crummy seas, crummy sail. We left Killybegs at 7:45 AM in sunshine and light winds. Within the hour it clouded over and the winds kicked up. The seas were 2-3 meters and very lumpy and confused. We had a 60 mile sail, all of it unpleasant. We banged badly and one wave knocked out our wind instrument. We still have wind direction but do not know the speed. Finding out what part is needed will take another trip up the mast. Our compensation for such a lousy day was a welcome by about 40 dolphins that came swimming towards the boat to usher us down the river to a mooring. The anchorage was not that much calmer that the seas.
Friday, July 29, 2011: Broadhaven to Killary Harbor. Today’s sail was only slightly better than yesterday’s. Seas were still lumpy, wind was still strong, and it rained. We were about an hour and a half away from stopping for the evening when we picked up a lobster pot. We could not get it off the prop using a boat hook so it took RXC donning his dive gear and going overboard to release it. The boat was bobbing away and it took about an hour to release us. We finished our sail another 60miles and anchored in tiny bay with beautiful scenery. This anchorage was a bit calmer.
Saturday, July 30, 2011: Killary Harbor to Roundstone. A third day of crummy seas and weather. It was clear and bright in the early morning, so we washed down the boat. We started out about 10 AM just when the clouds moved in. The sailing conditions had changed little. We sailed and motored around Slyne Head to ease the banging of the bow. We arrived in Roundstone which is a quaint village built on a hill. We plan to stay here a couple of days at least until the seas change.
Sunday, July 31, 2011: Roundstone. This is a Bank Holiday Weekend in Ireland so things are busy. The tiny village is bustling with tourists and the pubs and restaurants are overflowing. We had a good pub lunch of smoked salmon sandwich and seafood chowder. It is still rainy but the wind seems to have eased. We are trying to go to Galway by bus from here to meet friends but it might just be easier to meet them on Aran Island because busses don’t run on Sunday and will run on a holiday schedule tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Adieu Scotland
Port Ellen, Islay to Sheep Haven, Ireland: Across the North Channel
Saturday, July 23. Back to watching tides, currents, sea state, and weather. We needed to set out from Port Ellen at 5 AM to catch a favorable push across the North Channel to Ireland. Our intended destination was Lough Swilley, which is in the Republic of Ireland and 50 odd miles from Port Ellen. We were up at 4 AM to get ourselves ready to get underway. We were rewarded by the most magnificent sunrise over Islay. There was a Force 5 wind coming out of the northwest and a smooth sea state (just the way Pumpkin likes it). We set out on what turned out to be our best sail of the trip. The sun was shining, the winds were steady and from the right direction, there were no swells and we booked it across the channel. When we got to Malin Head it was still early in the day, conditions were still perfect, and we were still having a great time. We decided to pass Lough Swilly and head towards Sheep Haven which aside from a great name got us in a good position to round Bloody Foreland the next day. We travelled 62 nautical miles in 9 hours.
Sheep Haven has beautiful beaches and there were a lot of people out enjoying them. The anchorage there has visitor moorings so we picked up a mooring and enjoyed the show on the beach. We spent a relaxed and quite evening but early to bed as we had to be off again about 5 AM the next morning.
Sheep Haven to Aranmore Island: Diesel and The Lobster Pot
Sunday, July 24. Light wind between Force 2 and 3 would usually have us motor sailing but today we have only a third of a tank of fuel left so we are sailing. It is very slow going, eventually the wind dies, and the current turn against us so we are forced to motor. We decide to make for a town called Burtonport for fuel. Being a Sunday we were worried that the fuel dock would be closed. Burtonport has a ferry service every 10 minutes to the nearby island of Aranmore so it is all diesel al the time there. We got the tank filled, just as a Customs boat came into the harbor. Are they looking for us? We went off to have a seafood lunch at the Lobster Pot where an enormous lobster decorates the façade. By the time we got back to the boat Customs had decided to go ashore and get their own lunch perhaps. So we motored off to look for an anchorage for the evening. We went around to the south side of Aranmore and anchored in a protected cove.
Monday, July 25. Aranmore to Killybegs: We are boarded. We left Aranmore to sail along some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe. Spectacular rugged cliffs and waterfalls and white beaches were our views for the whole trip to Killybegs where we were planning on spending a few days. Just outside of Killybegs, the Customs ship is coming up to coast towards us. Yes they were looking for us yesterday and they found us today. They stopped the ship, launched a dingy and before we knew it they were politely asking if they could come aboard. Papers in order, pets imported legally, all in order we can go on our merry way. We arrived in Killybegs which is very much a fishing town. There was a mooring that we picked up for the night.
Saturday, July 23. Back to watching tides, currents, sea state, and weather. We needed to set out from Port Ellen at 5 AM to catch a favorable push across the North Channel to Ireland. Our intended destination was Lough Swilley, which is in the Republic of Ireland and 50 odd miles from Port Ellen. We were up at 4 AM to get ourselves ready to get underway. We were rewarded by the most magnificent sunrise over Islay. There was a Force 5 wind coming out of the northwest and a smooth sea state (just the way Pumpkin likes it). We set out on what turned out to be our best sail of the trip. The sun was shining, the winds were steady and from the right direction, there were no swells and we booked it across the channel. When we got to Malin Head it was still early in the day, conditions were still perfect, and we were still having a great time. We decided to pass Lough Swilly and head towards Sheep Haven which aside from a great name got us in a good position to round Bloody Foreland the next day. We travelled 62 nautical miles in 9 hours.
Sheep Haven has beautiful beaches and there were a lot of people out enjoying them. The anchorage there has visitor moorings so we picked up a mooring and enjoyed the show on the beach. We spent a relaxed and quite evening but early to bed as we had to be off again about 5 AM the next morning.
Sheep Haven to Aranmore Island: Diesel and The Lobster Pot
Sunday, July 24. Light wind between Force 2 and 3 would usually have us motor sailing but today we have only a third of a tank of fuel left so we are sailing. It is very slow going, eventually the wind dies, and the current turn against us so we are forced to motor. We decide to make for a town called Burtonport for fuel. Being a Sunday we were worried that the fuel dock would be closed. Burtonport has a ferry service every 10 minutes to the nearby island of Aranmore so it is all diesel al the time there. We got the tank filled, just as a Customs boat came into the harbor. Are they looking for us? We went off to have a seafood lunch at the Lobster Pot where an enormous lobster decorates the façade. By the time we got back to the boat Customs had decided to go ashore and get their own lunch perhaps. So we motored off to look for an anchorage for the evening. We went around to the south side of Aranmore and anchored in a protected cove.
Monday, July 25. Aranmore to Killybegs: We are boarded. We left Aranmore to sail along some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe. Spectacular rugged cliffs and waterfalls and white beaches were our views for the whole trip to Killybegs where we were planning on spending a few days. Just outside of Killybegs, the Customs ship is coming up to coast towards us. Yes they were looking for us yesterday and they found us today. They stopped the ship, launched a dingy and before we knew it they were politely asking if they could come aboard. Papers in order, pets imported legally, all in order we can go on our merry way. We arrived in Killybegs which is very much a fishing town. There was a mooring that we picked up for the night.
Friday, July 22, 2011
The Rest of the Malts Cruise
Out of Tobermory to Loch Sunart
In my last posting I mentioned that we had a group dinner Monday evening, July 11, in Tobermory. The next day boats would go their own way until Friday when another rendezvous was planned. The dinner was at the Western Isles Hotel and it was FABULOUS. It was a buffet of local seafood and nothing was spared. There were crabs, langoustines, and salmon, to mention only a few of the delicacies. A piper welcomed us to the hotel and later piped us into the buffet. We were offered a welcoming dram of the Tobermory Distillery’s best actually 2 different whiskies, both excellent but hard to find outside of Scotland we are told. We enjoyed our evening and met more of the interesting people who are on this cruise.
Tuesday, July 12. We were scheduled for a morning tour of the Tobermory Distillery. We needed to do a bit of shopping so it was past lunch time when we got back to the boat. We decided to go only as far as Loch Sunart which was just across the Sound of Mull for the evening as there was virtually no wind. The next day we would have to go around Ardnamurchan Point which has a notorious reputation so we wanted to take it easy after our busy morning. We went into a picturesque bay named Drumbuie where we spent the night. About 8 boats were there.
Wednesday, July 13. The next morning we set out in a light wind and flat seas making our rounding of Ardnamurchan Point completely without drama. Eventually, the wind picked up and we had a glorious sail around the isle of Muck then the wind died. We were planning to visit Loch Moidart that evening which is said to be one of the loveliest anchorages on the western coast. But with no wind at about 2 PM we decided rather than motor for several hours to get there we would anchor on the southeast coast of Eigg. We found a deep pool in an area without boats. The next morning we pulled out the jib and coasted all the way to our next destination, the island of Rum.
RUM
Thursday, July 14. Rum is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and is quite mountainous. We arrived in Loch Scresort a day earlier than the cruise schedule so that we could get off the boat and hike a bit. Wednesday afternoon we took a rather easy walk up a glen in “persistent” rain. Then we called into the only café where about 11 cruisers were having their afternoon cuppa and swapping stories. Only one set was from the Malts Cruise. About 6 boats were in the Loch that evening.
Friday, July 15. We got off the boat early and made a rigorous hike up to a caldera where we had a spectacular view of the boats in the bay. We had a tour scheduled for the afternoon.
Rum is owned by the National Conservancy of Scotland and is primarily a nature preserve. But there is the 19th Kinloch Castle on the island built facing Loch Scresort. It is the most complete example of an Edwardian furnished stately home in the UK. We toured the house which was a conservator’s nightmare. Then we headed for a lecture about Rum by the island’s only ranger/interpreter. The evening barbecue was held in the tiny village hall and it was excellent. It was catered by 2 young women who did the serving of the local venison delicacies from outside the hall in force 7 winds and heavy rain with only the fly of a large tent covering them. Again there was a bit of bagpipe playing to close the evening.
RESCUE US
Back Story: We began our trip out of Port Medoc by helping a new acquaintance bail his sinking wooden boat after it was put into the water. It had been on land for bottom work for a couple of weeks and it was so hot and dry in France, that the planks of the hull dried out enough that when launched, and by the time he got the boat over to his slip it was taking on water so seriously that his pump could not keep up with it and it was sinking. His was the last boat launched before lunch so no help was to be found at the travel lift to get him back out of the water. His wife drove around to ask us to help which we did by RXC using a hand pump in the cockpit while the owner used a battery powered pump inside the boat to keep her afloat. The wife finally found someone who could contact the dock workers. For emergencies, the French will come back to work from lunch so the boat was re-hauled and left to be worked on another day.
Back to Rum: RXC and I are walking back to the harbor after dinner (earlier than most folks but probably about 10 PM) and we look out to see a boat lumbering on the shoreline among the rocks. She was behind Petillant and remember I said it is blowing stink and pouring rain which were perfect conditions for anchor failure. At the opening talk for the Malts Cruise, it was recommended that we leave keys in the ignition in case of an emergency. We took off for the wayward boat and I hopped on board and yes there are the keys and the engine starts! RXC ties up the dingy, gets on board and oh happy day the windless controls are there too. We get the anchor up which is covered with weed and a metal crab cage. We got the boat off the rocks and called to a group coming back to their boat to help us and get the owners who were still partying at the hall, which they did.
The village hall was quite a far distance from the harbor so we milled about for 45 minutes until the owners arrived. I have never been so wet in my life as the boat had no bimini. We got back to Petillant and needed to dry off and warm up. This boat had dragged completely across the loch but luckily damaged no boats along the way. Later that night we were making one final check outside and there was yet another boat back of us in nearly the same position the boat we rescued. We had our fill of rescuing boats and hoped that there were people on board who would figure out they were on the rocks.
Saturday, July 19. By morning the storm had passed although bad weather was predicted for the next few days. We had hoped to go on an eagle walk but that had to be cancelled because of poor visibility. So about 11 am, we pulled out our jib again and sailed to the Isle of Canna.
CANNA
Canna is owned by the National Trust of Scotland. Its climate is generally better than its neighbors as we can attest. We anchored in Canna Harbor where there was only one small fishing boat. We were basking in sunshine as we watched the gray clouds and rain envelope Rum only a few miles away. There were Highland Cattle grazing close to shore, lovely stone buildings surrounding the bay, and seals popping their heads up begging for treats.
Spray of Wight a classic gaff-rigged catch and the Malts Cruise “Head Boat” glided into the harbor, so now we were two. We walked a bit around the island which had a completely different feel from the others we had visited. More flat but utterly green bathed in the afternoon sunlight, one could imagine staying at anchor here for another week at least.
Spray of Wight organized and hosted the whisky nosing and tastings, so that evening we had our chance to taste and discuss whisky with the expert from Diageo. We brought goose and duck foie to share and discuss what whisky to pair with them. We learned quite a bit felt very lucky to have had such a personalized tasting.
Sunday, July 20. Predictions were for the weather to deteriorate and there was a gale warning for Mallin our destination area. Spray was going to Coll and we were thinking of going to Gometre or Ulva. Both could be achieved by sailing downwind in force 7 winds without distress. We headed out for Gometre at about 11 AM in light winds and sunshine. But true to forecast once we left Canna we had strong winds and the seas were kicking up. At one point we clocked winds at Force 8, make that gale Force 8. It rained, we were cold, visibility was not great, the cats were very unhappy, but the jib was fully out and we surfed down to Gometre sometimes at 11 knots. We got in the tiny harbor to find one boat there already but sensibly placed to permit another boat to anchor. We dropped the hook in Force 7 winds plus heavy rain and had one heck of a ride that night.
Monday, July 21. By morning all was calm, the sun was out, the seas were flat, and weather predictions were still for strong winds and gales. But not right now. We once again pulled out the jib and headed towards the south coast of Mull to Ardalanish a tiny inlet on the Ross of Mull. No “bigger than a bread box” we dropped anchor in a walled cove in sunshine and little wind. By evening the Highland cows came down to the edge of the cliffs to graze. The cove can safely hold only one boat and about 6 PM another boat tried to anchor less that a boat length away from us. We told them there was an identical cove around the corner where they could anchor but they said no. We warned them that they were too close but they persisted. Finally the winds swung us close enough that they did go to the next inlet over, perfectly lovely and about the same size and protection. We had sunshine but later force 7 winds kicked up so it was a good thing they left.
Tuesday, July 19. Our next destination was Loch Tarbet on Jura for another rendezvous and picnic. Once again we could pull out the jib and sail downwind for a great day of sailing. Malts Cruise boats were streaming into the Loch and we were able to sail all the way into the anchorage. We found a beautiful, large bay which reminded of us Shaw Bay. We anchored and got ready to go ashore for the 5 PM dram and canapés that were selected to go with the various malts on offer. At 6 PM a barbeque was catered by the gentleman we bought our fresh seafood from back in Oban.
Loch Tarbet is the most remote loch in the isles as there is no road there. So our chef sailed in with the mussels, venison steaks, and homemade shortbread dessert, not to mention the pots, pans, and charcoal. The food was delicious enhanced by the setting and camaraderie. Two pipers played that evening as well.
Wednesday, July 20. We did not read the program schedule thoroughly and we thought we could sail to Gigha for the evening and then to Port Ellen for the final day of activities which in our minds were 2 days away. We did not get up early after the party ashore and it was very foggy that morning so we did not even open the companion way doors to look outside. After tea and breakfast, when we did look out the 30 or 40 boats in the anchorage were gone. As it turned out we needed to get to Port Ellen today because we had signed up for a 9 AM tour of Islay the next day. Tides and current were such that the boats left early to catch the push to get them down the Sound of Islay. So in dense fog and no wind we left Loch Tarbet wishing we had one more day of sailing before the rally ended. We were still out enough to get a good push from the current, so we got through the Sound of Islay before it ran against us. The sun came out as we coasted along Islay toward Port Ellen passing one distillery after another: Caol Ila, Ardberg, Laphhroaig, Lagavulin….
When we got to Port Ellen all of pontoons and moorings were taken so we anchored quite far from the marina pier for the evening.
Thursday, July 21. Our wrap up. At 9 AM we were on the bus taking a half day tour of Islay. We went to an archaeological site where the first seat of government was established for the island. The “Lords of the Isles” ruled this area for centuries until James II broke their power and demolished their communities. There were the ruins of a church, great hall, and early stone carvings including a cross set in a remote and haunting location.
Next we went on to a great house with a magnificent garden where in order to maintain it they community has put into use for those who want to come and harvest your own fruit and vegetables as a modest cost. We bought lettuce, parsley, and a yellow courgette. Also in this village was the island’s only brewery. The beer is distinguished by the fact that they used the peated malt which the island is famous for. The beers were like nothing we had ever tasted. Of course, we bought a selection of the darker brews. Good thing we were on a bus and had a very long dingy ride back to the boat or there would have been more purchased.
Our last stop was in the town of Bowmore where we bought venison steak at t
he local butcher and stocked up on yogurt and plants of fresh herbs from the grocery shop. In the afternoon we toured the Lagavulin Distillery where we had to wait for an hour for our tour as we were waiting for some Belgian cyclists to join us. They plied us with many drams to ease our wait. We bought an amazing whisky available only at the distillery and feel here at the end of it all we have an impressive selection of island whiskies to get us through the year!
Our final gathering began with a dram and canapés on the shore again with pipers. Since boats had been following their own whims it was a time to catch up and swap stories of where they had been and their adventures. This was followed by a seafood buffet and a final ceilidh. Most boats were planning to leave early in the morning, many folks bemoaning the fact they had to be back to work on Monday.
Friday, July 22, 2011. Today is our final day in Scotland. I am hoping that I can find wifi ashore someplace and I can get this narrative posted. Photos on the Flickr account will take much more powerful internet connection than I suspect is here in Islay. We want to find haggis for lunch somewhere and walk around town. Tomorrow we head for Ireland as we begin to make our way back towards France. This should take 4-5 weeks. Thankfully, we do not have to be back to work on Monday!
In my last posting I mentioned that we had a group dinner Monday evening, July 11, in Tobermory. The next day boats would go their own way until Friday when another rendezvous was planned. The dinner was at the Western Isles Hotel and it was FABULOUS. It was a buffet of local seafood and nothing was spared. There were crabs, langoustines, and salmon, to mention only a few of the delicacies. A piper welcomed us to the hotel and later piped us into the buffet. We were offered a welcoming dram of the Tobermory Distillery’s best actually 2 different whiskies, both excellent but hard to find outside of Scotland we are told. We enjoyed our evening and met more of the interesting people who are on this cruise.
Tuesday, July 12. We were scheduled for a morning tour of the Tobermory Distillery. We needed to do a bit of shopping so it was past lunch time when we got back to the boat. We decided to go only as far as Loch Sunart which was just across the Sound of Mull for the evening as there was virtually no wind. The next day we would have to go around Ardnamurchan Point which has a notorious reputation so we wanted to take it easy after our busy morning. We went into a picturesque bay named Drumbuie where we spent the night. About 8 boats were there.
Wednesday, July 13. The next morning we set out in a light wind and flat seas making our rounding of Ardnamurchan Point completely without drama. Eventually, the wind picked up and we had a glorious sail around the isle of Muck then the wind died. We were planning to visit Loch Moidart that evening which is said to be one of the loveliest anchorages on the western coast. But with no wind at about 2 PM we decided rather than motor for several hours to get there we would anchor on the southeast coast of Eigg. We found a deep pool in an area without boats. The next morning we pulled out the jib and coasted all the way to our next destination, the island of Rum.
RUM
Thursday, July 14. Rum is the largest of the Inner Hebrides and is quite mountainous. We arrived in Loch Scresort a day earlier than the cruise schedule so that we could get off the boat and hike a bit. Wednesday afternoon we took a rather easy walk up a glen in “persistent” rain. Then we called into the only café where about 11 cruisers were having their afternoon cuppa and swapping stories. Only one set was from the Malts Cruise. About 6 boats were in the Loch that evening.
Friday, July 15. We got off the boat early and made a rigorous hike up to a caldera where we had a spectacular view of the boats in the bay. We had a tour scheduled for the afternoon.
Rum is owned by the National Conservancy of Scotland and is primarily a nature preserve. But there is the 19th Kinloch Castle on the island built facing Loch Scresort. It is the most complete example of an Edwardian furnished stately home in the UK. We toured the house which was a conservator’s nightmare. Then we headed for a lecture about Rum by the island’s only ranger/interpreter. The evening barbecue was held in the tiny village hall and it was excellent. It was catered by 2 young women who did the serving of the local venison delicacies from outside the hall in force 7 winds and heavy rain with only the fly of a large tent covering them. Again there was a bit of bagpipe playing to close the evening.
RESCUE US
Back Story: We began our trip out of Port Medoc by helping a new acquaintance bail his sinking wooden boat after it was put into the water. It had been on land for bottom work for a couple of weeks and it was so hot and dry in France, that the planks of the hull dried out enough that when launched, and by the time he got the boat over to his slip it was taking on water so seriously that his pump could not keep up with it and it was sinking. His was the last boat launched before lunch so no help was to be found at the travel lift to get him back out of the water. His wife drove around to ask us to help which we did by RXC using a hand pump in the cockpit while the owner used a battery powered pump inside the boat to keep her afloat. The wife finally found someone who could contact the dock workers. For emergencies, the French will come back to work from lunch so the boat was re-hauled and left to be worked on another day.
Back to Rum: RXC and I are walking back to the harbor after dinner (earlier than most folks but probably about 10 PM) and we look out to see a boat lumbering on the shoreline among the rocks. She was behind Petillant and remember I said it is blowing stink and pouring rain which were perfect conditions for anchor failure. At the opening talk for the Malts Cruise, it was recommended that we leave keys in the ignition in case of an emergency. We took off for the wayward boat and I hopped on board and yes there are the keys and the engine starts! RXC ties up the dingy, gets on board and oh happy day the windless controls are there too. We get the anchor up which is covered with weed and a metal crab cage. We got the boat off the rocks and called to a group coming back to their boat to help us and get the owners who were still partying at the hall, which they did.
The village hall was quite a far distance from the harbor so we milled about for 45 minutes until the owners arrived. I have never been so wet in my life as the boat had no bimini. We got back to Petillant and needed to dry off and warm up. This boat had dragged completely across the loch but luckily damaged no boats along the way. Later that night we were making one final check outside and there was yet another boat back of us in nearly the same position the boat we rescued. We had our fill of rescuing boats and hoped that there were people on board who would figure out they were on the rocks.
Saturday, July 19. By morning the storm had passed although bad weather was predicted for the next few days. We had hoped to go on an eagle walk but that had to be cancelled because of poor visibility. So about 11 am, we pulled out our jib again and sailed to the Isle of Canna.
CANNA
Canna is owned by the National Trust of Scotland. Its climate is generally better than its neighbors as we can attest. We anchored in Canna Harbor where there was only one small fishing boat. We were basking in sunshine as we watched the gray clouds and rain envelope Rum only a few miles away. There were Highland Cattle grazing close to shore, lovely stone buildings surrounding the bay, and seals popping their heads up begging for treats.
Spray of Wight a classic gaff-rigged catch and the Malts Cruise “Head Boat” glided into the harbor, so now we were two. We walked a bit around the island which had a completely different feel from the others we had visited. More flat but utterly green bathed in the afternoon sunlight, one could imagine staying at anchor here for another week at least.
Spray of Wight organized and hosted the whisky nosing and tastings, so that evening we had our chance to taste and discuss whisky with the expert from Diageo. We brought goose and duck foie to share and discuss what whisky to pair with them. We learned quite a bit felt very lucky to have had such a personalized tasting.
Sunday, July 20. Predictions were for the weather to deteriorate and there was a gale warning for Mallin our destination area. Spray was going to Coll and we were thinking of going to Gometre or Ulva. Both could be achieved by sailing downwind in force 7 winds without distress. We headed out for Gometre at about 11 AM in light winds and sunshine. But true to forecast once we left Canna we had strong winds and the seas were kicking up. At one point we clocked winds at Force 8, make that gale Force 8. It rained, we were cold, visibility was not great, the cats were very unhappy, but the jib was fully out and we surfed down to Gometre sometimes at 11 knots. We got in the tiny harbor to find one boat there already but sensibly placed to permit another boat to anchor. We dropped the hook in Force 7 winds plus heavy rain and had one heck of a ride that night.
Monday, July 21. By morning all was calm, the sun was out, the seas were flat, and weather predictions were still for strong winds and gales. But not right now. We once again pulled out the jib and headed towards the south coast of Mull to Ardalanish a tiny inlet on the Ross of Mull. No “bigger than a bread box” we dropped anchor in a walled cove in sunshine and little wind. By evening the Highland cows came down to the edge of the cliffs to graze. The cove can safely hold only one boat and about 6 PM another boat tried to anchor less that a boat length away from us. We told them there was an identical cove around the corner where they could anchor but they said no. We warned them that they were too close but they persisted. Finally the winds swung us close enough that they did go to the next inlet over, perfectly lovely and about the same size and protection. We had sunshine but later force 7 winds kicked up so it was a good thing they left.
Tuesday, July 19. Our next destination was Loch Tarbet on Jura for another rendezvous and picnic. Once again we could pull out the jib and sail downwind for a great day of sailing. Malts Cruise boats were streaming into the Loch and we were able to sail all the way into the anchorage. We found a beautiful, large bay which reminded of us Shaw Bay. We anchored and got ready to go ashore for the 5 PM dram and canapés that were selected to go with the various malts on offer. At 6 PM a barbeque was catered by the gentleman we bought our fresh seafood from back in Oban.
Loch Tarbet is the most remote loch in the isles as there is no road there. So our chef sailed in with the mussels, venison steaks, and homemade shortbread dessert, not to mention the pots, pans, and charcoal. The food was delicious enhanced by the setting and camaraderie. Two pipers played that evening as well.
Wednesday, July 20. We did not read the program schedule thoroughly and we thought we could sail to Gigha for the evening and then to Port Ellen for the final day of activities which in our minds were 2 days away. We did not get up early after the party ashore and it was very foggy that morning so we did not even open the companion way doors to look outside. After tea and breakfast, when we did look out the 30 or 40 boats in the anchorage were gone. As it turned out we needed to get to Port Ellen today because we had signed up for a 9 AM tour of Islay the next day. Tides and current were such that the boats left early to catch the push to get them down the Sound of Islay. So in dense fog and no wind we left Loch Tarbet wishing we had one more day of sailing before the rally ended. We were still out enough to get a good push from the current, so we got through the Sound of Islay before it ran against us. The sun came out as we coasted along Islay toward Port Ellen passing one distillery after another: Caol Ila, Ardberg, Laphhroaig, Lagavulin….
When we got to Port Ellen all of pontoons and moorings were taken so we anchored quite far from the marina pier for the evening.
Thursday, July 21. Our wrap up. At 9 AM we were on the bus taking a half day tour of Islay. We went to an archaeological site where the first seat of government was established for the island. The “Lords of the Isles” ruled this area for centuries until James II broke their power and demolished their communities. There were the ruins of a church, great hall, and early stone carvings including a cross set in a remote and haunting location.
Next we went on to a great house with a magnificent garden where in order to maintain it they community has put into use for those who want to come and harvest your own fruit and vegetables as a modest cost. We bought lettuce, parsley, and a yellow courgette. Also in this village was the island’s only brewery. The beer is distinguished by the fact that they used the peated malt which the island is famous for. The beers were like nothing we had ever tasted. Of course, we bought a selection of the darker brews. Good thing we were on a bus and had a very long dingy ride back to the boat or there would have been more purchased.
Our last stop was in the town of Bowmore where we bought venison steak at t
he local butcher and stocked up on yogurt and plants of fresh herbs from the grocery shop. In the afternoon we toured the Lagavulin Distillery where we had to wait for an hour for our tour as we were waiting for some Belgian cyclists to join us. They plied us with many drams to ease our wait. We bought an amazing whisky available only at the distillery and feel here at the end of it all we have an impressive selection of island whiskies to get us through the year!
Our final gathering began with a dram and canapés on the shore again with pipers. Since boats had been following their own whims it was a time to catch up and swap stories of where they had been and their adventures. This was followed by a seafood buffet and a final ceilidh. Most boats were planning to leave early in the morning, many folks bemoaning the fact they had to be back to work on Monday.
Friday, July 22, 2011. Today is our final day in Scotland. I am hoping that I can find wifi ashore someplace and I can get this narrative posted. Photos on the Flickr account will take much more powerful internet connection than I suspect is here in Islay. We want to find haggis for lunch somewhere and walk around town. Tomorrow we head for Ireland as we begin to make our way back towards France. This should take 4-5 weeks. Thankfully, we do not have to be back to work on Monday!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Oban to Tobermory, Mull
The Malts Cruise festivities kicked off on Saturday night with a piper leading a parade of rally organizers and participants along the marina pier to shore where more than 100 sailors were waiting for the opening words of welcome, a toast, and a dram of Oban 14 year whisky. This was followed by a buffet dinner complete with a VERY good white Burgundy and a Chateau Neuf du Papes wine. After dinner there was a ceilidh band so folks could dance, but the evening music ended with Johnny Cash for the 12 Kentuckians who had chartered 2 boats and were participating in the rally.
Earlier in the day, we had several lectures about sailing the west Coast of Scotland, the Malts Cruise and it’s beginnings, suggested routes for this year, and possible anchorages. A wildlife conservationist/sailor presented a slide lecture on enjoying local wildlife that we may see and how to approach some of the more impressive creatures such as the basking shark should we sight one. There was also a briefing for all the participants on rally procedures, activities, and schedule.
Sunday morning boats prepared to sail up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory. We had spent 3 nights on a mooring to please the kitties so we headed into the marina to fill our water tanks before taking off. From now on will we rely solely on our water maker because we will be anchoring out for the rest of the rally. We have been running it since we left Port Medoc and it is working very well. We are using more fresh water these days because of our new head.
Our departure began with a parade of sail around Oban Bay, a very pretty sight. There was wind from the northwest to get us started up the Bay but it required a lot of tacking. Most boats started the day under sail but resorted to motoring the last hour or so. We took a mooring in Tobermory and went ashore for a fish and chip dinner and dram provided by the rally.
On Monday we signed up to take a half day bus tour around Mull. The sky was bright and sunny so we had a great tour of this beautiful island where there were sheep everywhere. The evening will begin with a lecture about the history of Mull and its people by a local historian. It will finish up with seafood buffet dinner. The last thing left for us to do here is our tour of the Tobermory Distillery which is scheduled for 11 AM Tuesday morning.
All of these activities have been organized by the World Cruising Association which has the Malts Cruise in its portfolio. Previously Diageo Distillers had sponsored the Classic Malts rally so tastings were only at their distilleries and activities did not extend to tours and wildlife activities (there is an upcoming eagle spotting excursion). Last year the rally did not take place while it was evaluated and reorganized. We are certainly glad we are able to participate in the Malts Cruise version. Some of the participants have been on 7or 8 of these.
Tuesday afternoon the boats go their own way. Anchorages and interesting destinations have been suggested. We all come back together again for shared activities Friday on the Isle of Rum. Every evening there is a whisky tasting with an expert. The host boat will be visiting these suggested anchorages so that you can participate in a tasting evening in the anchorage. The site is announced daily on the VHF.
It is highly unlikely that I will find a wifi access point after this posting for quite a few days. Access has been difficult in most places due to a combination of reasons. I will post what I can when I can. In the mean time, we will be enjoying the wind, the water, and the whisky.
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