We left Oban on August 27 and
headed up to Dunstaffnage, where we participated in the Jeanneau Scotland
Rendevous. This was a gathering of
Jeanneau boats, and it was quite well attended, considering the location. We had a great time talking to other Jeanneau
owners, dealers, and factory reps about
our boats. The food at the Wide-Mouthed
Frog restaurant was quite good, as well. We also won a step-bumper during the quiz-night!
We left Dunstafnage on July 29, heading SW towards
Crinan. We had done the Crinan Canal
last year, and were not really happy about doing it again, but it appeared to
be the best/fastest/most efficient way to get to Troon, and then over to
Bangor. However, we talked to a number of local people at the Jeanneau
Rendevous, and they advised us to take the longer path instead of the
canal. True, it would be longer, but
easier. They also advised that we stop
at Gigha, down the Sound of Jura, to dine at the Boatouse, a very well known
restaurant there. This made us
reconsider, and we decided to re-evaluate once we reached Crinan.
Crinan and the Mull of Kintyre
In Crinan we picked up a guest mooring behind the boat yard
and took the dinghy at least 50 feet to one of those segmented pontoons that
people use to land and launch jet-skis.
It was quite a new experience to walk on, especially with the swell that
was running. We walked into town and had
a very nice meal at the Oban hotel/Seafood Bar.
Then it was time to decide where to go next.
Looking at the canal and the weather, we figured that if we
went thru the canal we would take 2 days for the passage, and another day to
head down to Troon. If we sailed around
the Mull of Kintyre we would take 2 or 3 days, depending on whether we stopped
just at the restaurant on Gigha, or made another stop at the tip of the Mull to
wait for a favorable tide. The weather
also looked like it would be favorable for sailing. Finally, we considered the cost of the
passage thru the canal, vs the potential cost of having to motor all the way to Troon. In the end, we made the right decision.
We left Crinan pretty early on July 30, to try to avoid the
worst of the tide against us, and headed SW, towards the Mull of Kintyre. We were not quite sure how long we would be
able to sail, or what the tides would be like around the Mull, but we figured
that we could stop in Gigha if it was too hard.
In the end, it was not hard at all.
The winds started out from the NW, and we reached to the SW
at a pretty constant 5-6 kts. We
were(and still are) hand steering, because the autopilot is in Southampton, so
we had to do a bit more work than we are used to. However, the seas were slight, and the sun
came out, and it was a good sail until just before we reached Gigha. At this point the wind shifted more to the
west, and the seas started to build, so we decided to motor a bit. Unfortunately, we had headed out into the
main part of the sound instead of into Gigha sound, so we did not have an easy
option to duck into the anchorage at Gigha – it was on the other side of the
island. This caused some discussion
about the best way to get around the island.
We did not want to give up the miles already gained, but it would be a
longer sail to head SW and then turn back to the NE. In the interests of making more progress, we
continued SW, and just as we cleared the end of the island, the sun came out, the seas died down, and the wind shifted a bit
more to the north. So, looking at the
chart and the tides and the time, we made an ad-hoc decision to continue all
the way to the Mull and try to make it to Sanda Island before dark. This was also a good decision.
We sailed almost all the way to the tip of the Mull, looking
for the house of Sir Paul McCarthy all the way, before the wind died
completely. Right after we started the
motor we started to catch the vaforable tide around the mull, and our speed
mounted to nearly 13 kts(!). This was
fun, and even though we passed thru a lot of tide rips, the sea state did not
build up anything dangerous. It was very
similar to the ride into the Golfe de Morbihan . We arrive at Sanda at about 9 PM, to find a
gorgeous anchorage occupied by only one other boat, which was on one of the
3(!) mooring provided for visitors. At
no charge, we think. It was a lovely
night, quiet, and we slept like logs.
Next morning, we had to get up at 6 AM again, to make the
tide, and the ride up into the Firth of Clyde started off just like the ride
around the Mull of Kintyre had ended. In
addition, we had a nice SE wind and we sailed about half way to Troon at 6 kts
before the wind died. We then motored
about 20 miles into Troon.
Visiting and Shopping and Castles
In Troon, we had three main objectives: (1) to visit Audrey, Bernadette’s 93 year-old
mother, (2) shopping at the Costco in Galsgow, and (3) to visit the Culzean
Castle, south of Ayr. Audrey was
watching the Olympics when we arrived, and we had a very nice visit with
her. She appreciated the gifts that we
brought her from Bernadette, and we had a good time talking to her.
The next day we picked up the rental car and headed
north. This time we did not miss the
tricky hidden exit off of the Glasgow ring-road, and we got to Costco in no
time whatsoever (obeying all the speed law limits, of course). However, when we reached our main shopping
objective, we found that they only had 4 jugs of Kitty litter left! Catastrophe!
Crisis! What to do?!? Well, it turned out that they expected a new
shipment the next day, so we had to plan to go up to Glasgow
twice(argghh!). All in the name of
keeping the kitties happy, of course.
All was not lost, though.
We did a bunch of shopping for other stuff (we took the 4 jugs that were
there, of course), and discovered that Costco in the UK now take AMEX cards! This is a major good thing, because last year
we had to make significant cash withdrawals to be able to pay for our Costco
purchases. This year, it all went on the
Amex card, and it was good that we had the AMEX cards sent to Robin(thanks,
Robin!!).
We came back to the boat and did a quick trip to the Wee Hurrie for lunch. This is a combination fish-and-chips shack
and high-end restaurant at the end of the port, near the fish docks, which
serves some of the best fish and chips we have ever had. We now have Troon and Whitby as standards in
the F&C category.
Next day we headed back to Costco early, and lo-and-behold
they had restocked the vital kitty litter supplies. More stocking up with litter and other
necessities, back to the boat to drop it all off, and then we were off down
south towards Ayr. We eventually reached
Culzean Castle about 1:30 PM and we had a really nice tour of the castle, the
gardens, and the grounds. The Castle
dates back to the early 1700s, and is now a Scottish National Trust
property. It has great views over the
Firth and all the way over to Northern Ireland.
Highly recommended.
We dropped off the car on Sat morning and spent the rest of
the day stowing our purchases and preparing for Phil and Joan, who will be
flying into Dublin on Monday. They will
be meeting us in Bangor on Tues or Wed.
We plan to leave Troon on Monday AM.
Oh, and the autopilot has been fixed.
They will be sending it to Bangor and it should be there before Phil and
Joan. A good thing for them– we planned
to press them into service as helm-persons…
Kitties have been having a good time here in Troon. We are on a pontoon that has been mostly
empty, and have allowed them to roam a bit.
Dante likes to look into the holes where the pontoon pilings support the
pier. He also likes to look at other
boats, which we try to discourage.
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